Inspired by moths and motocross, Kate Sylvester’s Spring/Summer 2011/2012 collection is called ‘Into the light’. Due to the awkward lighting of her show at the Newmarket saleyard in Randwick last night, however, ironically many have complained that didn’t get to see it. In an uncharacteristically abrasive spray, even Vogue Australia’s Damien Woolnough complained today, “If I want to sit in a dark room filled with smoke I'll visit the share house of my university friends”. Frockwriter stayed backstage for the duration and had a much better view. It was a fantastic, if macabre, collection, with two motifs at its centrifuge: moth markings, which included a full death’s head moth motif used on T-shirts; and then a flame graphic, which doubled up on the revhead theme, as seen on coats, dresses and several fantastic sheer jumpsuits, shown with the tops worn both up and down – on the latter occasion, teamed with a lacy brassiere.
There was a score of military-nosed city shorts, teamed with silky knit tops and sporty zippered bomber cardis and many quite beautiful silk georgette and lace dresses in a smokey palette that was occasionally popped with daffodil, turquoise and kelly green. Some dresses were festooned with floral applique, while others featured destroyed ‘moth’ holes.
Given that these sorts of technical issues tend not to happen at the RAFW HQ at Circular Quay, it will be interesting to see if the New Zealander rethinks her decision to show off-site in Australia in future.
In three months, Sylvester’s fans will get a chance to see her stage another show – when she rejoins the New Zealand Fashion Week schedule after a one year hiatus.
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