Showing posts with label vivienne westwood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vivienne westwood. Show all posts

Friday, April 9, 2010

Death of a pop culture genius



Sad news about the death, at age 64, of Malcolm McLaren, following a secret battle with cancer. Unfortunately I don't have the time to write a full obit, but suffice it to say he was one of the most influential cultural figures of the second half of the 20th century. To be sure, his sphere of influence was pop culture. But the Punk revolution of the mid-late 1970s, in the commercialisation of which McLaren played an intrinsic role, rattled the foundations of music, fashion, graphic design and publishing.

A former manager of The New York Dolls, McLaren's early 1970s efforts to relocate New York poet/musician Richard Hell to London proved unsuccessful. McLaren engineered Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious instead, with Hell's spiked hair and ripped T-shirts providing what many believe was the inspiration for The Sex Pistols styling.

McLaren's (many) other music ventures included Bow Wow Wow and Adam and the Ants. And of course, he collaborated with Vivienne Westwood, his erstwhile business and life partner, with whom he also had a son, Joe Corre (co-founder of Agent Provocateur).

In this journalist's opinion, Westwood's collections were at their most subversive during the Westwood-McLaren collaboration years. Together they rocked London's Kings Road with their controversial boutiques, whose names changed from Let It Rock to Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die, Sex, Seditionaries and World's End. People were arrested for wearing Seditionaries T-shirts. It's hard to imagine today.

But the seeds for McLaren's brand of subversion had been sewn over a decade earlier, while he was an art student in London, against the backdrop of the May 1968 student riots in France. The riots themselves were rooted in the 1950s political/art movement Situationist International, of which McLaren became a disciple.

Above is an interview he did with Australia's Enough Rope program on the ABC on 10th July 2006.

Four months before that, I spoke to him backstage at Paris Fashion Week. We chatted about a number of things and I will endeavor to track down the original interview. One grab from it appeared at the end of this news story.

On the subject of artists, he told me:
"Artists have to always, always stand up and say, 'I'm not for sale' - meaning that your heart, your mindset, your artistic vision is not for sale. If that's for sale, then you're just a goddam wristwatch."

Thursday, February 5, 2009

London Fashion Week turns 25, goes to ELLE


john galliano for ELLE UK


London Fashion Week (February 20-25) is 25 years old this year. To mark this auspicious occasion, ELLE UK commissioned four commemorative covers for its March 2009 issue from four Brit frock stars: John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane. Hilariously, of course, only one of these names considers London Fashion Week a suitable showcase for their main line collection: Kane. With Galliano, McCartney and Westwood having long since buggered off to Paris (Westwood shows only her Red diffusion line in London). Knowing how exasperating some of the London PR contingent can be, frockwriter does not blame them for heading to more business-nosed waters. Here are two covers. Note McCartney has deployed a Beatles T-shirt on hers. And Westwood, interestingly, opted not only to provide a cover, but also a mini DIY manifesto for looking fabulous during hard times.


stella mccartney for ELLE UK


Westwood's DIY manifesto reads:
“In these hard times – Dress up. Do it yourself!”

With a few suggestions:

Necklace out of safety pins
Badges (preferably with political slogans)
Kerchiefs worn as knickers (good for disco or beach, or tied up as a bag)

The wording "we also offer..." does make it look like a bit of an opportunistic ad but hey, challenging times call for creative strategies.

Given, however, that one of Westwood's prefab sartorial solutions does not sound like it involves much value-adding, it's difficult to fathom why the cash-strapped would be heading to Westwood to pay full price for the look:

"Metres of precious silk thrown over ourself & attached to our body with hidden strings = evening wear"


The manifesto concludes with a plea on behalf of Westwood's fave prisoner of conscience, Leonard Peltier, the notification that $30billion per year is needed to save "the rainforest" and, naturellement, a flying cock.

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