Saturday, July 26, 2008

Sarah Stephens: Attempts explanation of "dag" to NY reporter - shows safest way to channel Wino


screen grab/'the cut'


Moving away from Tavi-gate for a moment, New York magazine’s The Cut blog steered into what it undoubtedly hoped would be less hater-laden waters yesterday: model interviews. Up-and-coming Oz supermod – and Chic hatchling - Sarah Stephens was yesterday’s video subject.

Click here to see the video.

The most interesting part of the iv is when Stephens finds herself having to explain the meaning of the Australian slang term "dag" to reporter Kendall Herbst.

Herbst: “How were you discovered? What was your big break?”

Stephens: “I won the Girlfriend Model Search. I didn’t expect it. I was the dag at school”

Herbst: “What’s the dag?”

Stephens: “Oh sorry – not the loner….. [thinks] A bit of a nerd. I was a bit of a square in Melbourne.”

[UPDATE 26/7 @ 12.05pm: As one reader pointed out overnight, Stephens is from Sydney, not Melbourne and what sounds very much like "a square in Melbourne" in the iv might in fact be "a square Melvin". I'll try and clarify this].


Damned shame she didn't clarify the exact origins of the word dag.

For the benefit of any internationals reading, please be advised that the original meaning of the word “dag” - ie before it was adopted as slang - is in fact a piece of poo dangling off a sheep’s bum.

Stephens also mentions that she “played in a band” at school.

Unlike Michaela Gerhmann however, the instrument in question does not appear to have been the drums. I’m sure I heard Stephens say “bass clarinet”.

With Oz models channelling Amy Winehouse very much the flavour of the week moreover, interesting to see Stephens point to some editorial in her portfolio and then explain the shoot's styling inspiration.

“It’s sort of like Amy Winehouse” explains Stephens;

“Minus the crack of course”.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Beth Ditto on SHOWstudio


screen grab/'feminist'

Don’t know if you have been following SHOWstudio’s ‘Political Fashion’ series – or indeed if you follow SHOWstudio at all. That’s the website operated by British photographer Nick Knight, which is prone to all manner of creative colabs. Overnight Beth Ditto, The Gossip frontwoman - and size acceptance poster girl - appeared in a Nick Knight film titled simply, Feminist, vamping it up in Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane.




screen grab/'feminist'

In my recent interview with Paris-based US actor Velvet d’Amour, Velvet nominated Ditto as one of the frontrunners of "the quiet, fat revolution”.

Click here
to see the film.


screen grab/'feminist'

Tavi the Style Rookie - she might not have legs, but the story sure does


style rookie


Judging by the traffic overnight (and notably from the US) there was a huge amount of interest in the story of fashion blogger extraordinaire Tavi - the author of Style Rookie - who describes herself as “a vertically challenged 12 year old that could fit inside your purse". The mainstream media appears to be asleep at the wheel, however the internet exploded overnight. And given the outpouring from those who say they either know Tavi, or have met her, it seems there's a chance that this story might not revolve around a clever marketing stunt after all, but rather, one clever kid.




style rookie

Much of the online reaction appears to have been in protest to New York mag journalist Jessica Coen who broke the Tavi story on the magazine's blog The Cut on Tuesday. That's in the mainstream news arena sense.

The Tavi story had been bubbling along in the blogosphere for three months - as it emerges, ever since a 16 year-old blogger by the name of Stephanie, aka Fashion Robot, first photographed her younger sister and bunch of her sister's friends - including a then unnamed Tavi - playing dressups.

Fashion Robot published a photospread of the session on March 22nd. Many commenters swooned over the style of "the little blonde girl".

On April 16th, Fashion Robot revealed that "the little blonde girl" had her own blog.

Subsequent blogs to pick the story up include Style Nova and Fashion Pirates.

On Tuesday NY mag's Jessica Coen simply asked a few questions as to Tavi's bona fides – as indeed any journalist should have done in these circumstances.

It was Coen’s snippy tone which seems to have been the problem.

Coen had written:
“So what sets Tavi apart from all those other bloggers no one cares about? If it weren't enough that she calls out Snoop "Doggy Dog" in the same paragraph that she drops "Margiela DIY," she's "wanting" a "fringed vest" and "listening" to Feist. Her blog is full of pictures of her in trendy duds, like high-waisted pants and mixed floral pieces. She writes about what she wore to her friend Claire's birthday party, thrifting, and Australian Vogue”.

I must admit I missed the Australian Vogue reference yesterday.

Here's a small sample of the many hostile comments posted on The Cut overnight.

Noted one commenter:
“So Tavi happens to be several times cooler than you where when you were her age(12!), get over it!”

And another:
“I'd rather see a thousand and ten Tavis out there than the Ho-llister and Abercrappy and Bitch clanned teens we are forced to see every day. I'm 13, and I have a blog, and mine doesn't deserve half the support that Tavi's does”.

Yet another:
“i am 12 and i have a fashion blog, big whoop. what is it to you? Tavi is my friend, and why doesn't it matter if she has good style. it not her fault that you don't. here, read my blog, i am real and i am real pissed. why can't a 12 year old have good style?”



style rookie

As for the blogosphere, well, it went into overdrive.

This is from a blog called White Lightning:

“let me say this, nymag and all random haters take note: miss tavi, the style rookie, is real. and basically awesomer than most of us. we had lunch. she got to see what a magazine office is like. we discussed the cdg/lv bags. someone in the elevator thought she was MY DAUGHTER (yeah, that has neverrr happened to me before. especially since i still get carded at rated R movies. but i would adopt her in a sec so WHATEVS.). as soon she's old enough i'd welcome her to be the star intern in our office. and then she'll steal all of our jobs”.


Catwalk Queen wrote:
“Why is the New York magazine ragging on Tavi? I think Tavi 'deserves' an 'apology'"!


Catwalk Queen has also created a special T-shirt in the Tavster's honour:


catwalk queen

Teen Vogue – which quite possibly had never heard of Tavi prior to Tuesday - nevertheless claimed the story as their own, and Tavi as “One of our absolute favorite fashion bloggers” and a “12-year-old prodigy”.

Together with the headline:
“TAVI TAKES THE TOWN”



style rookie

As for Tavi well, there's still no sign of her on the blog.

Her signoff post however now has 62 comments – all of them telling her, words to the effect, "You go girl!".

And frockwriter has a feeling that, forming a queue behind Tavi's perplexed parents and the child welfare authorities, may well be a swag of literary agents, publishers and the Nickelodeon and Disney networks, all waving six figure contracts.

According to Tavi's mate Stephanie aka Fashion Robot, Tavi is doing fine.

Writes Stephanie today:

“...she's a bit freaked out by this whole thing.... Don't worry guys - I spoke to Tavi and she'll be back to the blog in a few days!“

Thursday, July 24, 2008

sass & bide's page one



Sass & Bide on the cover of today's WWD.

It might just be a beaded cotton camisole and not their signature jeans - they have to share page one billings with Earl Jean on that regard - but it's a cover nonetheless.



And it follows one week after Collette Dinnigan made WWD's page one with a white lace dress from her resort 2009 collection, styled up with yet another floppy hat:



Alice McCall heads to NY Fashion Week - one of just three Oz labels this season?


alice mccall resort 09/pierre toussaint


Overnight COACD scanned the latest draft of New York’s Fashion Calendar and Alice McCall and sass & bide were the only Australian names listed thus far. To this frockwriter can add Aurelio Costarella. Costarella is not only going back to NYFW but, after two seasons showing off-schedule, he has bitten the bullet and is showing for the first time on-schedule in Bryant Park on September 11 @ 9.00am.




aurelio costarella FW0809/jason kibbler/model: amy finlayson

McCall is no surprise really.

In April, she told me that she was planning to show in New York come September.


alice mccall resort 09/pierre toussaint

McCall has shown off-schedule in London on several occasions.

This will be her first US show: off-schedule at 6pm, September 5, in the Altman Building.

“We’re ready to do a show again, absolutely” McCall told me this morning.

The designer’s last show was in May 2007 at Australian Fashion Week. In the interim McCall had a baby.


alice mccall resort 09/pierre toussaint/model: megan hind

In spite of the tough US retail climate that has impacted on the business of some Australian designers, McCall told me that she picked up 12 new US retail accounts in February with her “High on Rebellion” collection.

“We want to manage those” said McCall.

“It’s also an untapped market for us. We’re doing fantastically with our TopShop range in the UK, it sold out very quickly. Considering the economic climate, we’re having positive results”.

Sass & Bide is a surprise, because I had heard on the grapevine that they were considering not showing this season.

And Willow?

Willow is, according to the designer's HQ, still a possibility - and apparently for an on-schedule, but off-site show on either the 11th or 12th September - however nothing is as yet confirmed.

As listed in the Fashion Calendar scan, New Zealand's Karen Walker is also planning to show once again.

For the SS07 season two years ago the following six Australian names either individually staged, or were involved in, shows at New York Fashion Week:

• Sass & Bide
• Willow
• Toni Maticevski
• Josh Goot
• Lincoln Mayne Hoskins (Manhattan-based - Gen Art show)
• Ksubi (colab collection as part of the Jeremy Scott show)


The following season Jayson Brunsdon and Aurelio Costarella also mounted solo NY shows.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Is Tavi the world's youngest fashion blogger?


style rookie

Moving on from models-who-blog and models-who-sing, comes fashion-obsessed-kids-who-blog. Today's NY magazine throws the spotlight on what could be the world’s youngest fashion blogger. Or a marketing stunt. Or something else entirely.

On her Style Rookie profile, Tavi describes herself as:

“a vertically challenged 12 year old that could fit inside your purse. I like to think I'm a mix of Little Lu Lu and Iggy Pop, with a bit of Snoop Doggy Dog. I spend my time wearing out crayons and watching Arthur, and taking a rest now and then to try out the latest Margiela DIY, which has most recently resulted in a tire around my neck. I take part in a rap group with a pirate, and we write about Japanese designers and furry vests. Pleasure to make your acquaintance”.



style rookie

If this is to be believed, Tavi has been blogging since April with, to date, 3,813 profile views.

I’ll wager they're not all fashionwatchers.

Now look I know David Jones is doing is darndest to head off at the pass any future underage model scandals – by banning runway models under the age of 18. Some have applauded the decision.


style rookie

But what is one to do when cashed-up, tech-savvy kids are getting onto the net posting pics of themselves in their latest outfits?

The writing style seems incredibly mature for a 12 year-old. The photographs also look pretty professional.

By the same token, 15 year-old Cory Kennedy was an internet celebrity and on the cover of Nylon magazine before her parents had a clue what was going on.


style rookie

Tavi photographs herself in her fave outfits, critiques runway collections and styles her own shoots. She’s on numerous blogrolls and seems to have generated quite a lot of comments.

On June 28th, she wrote:
“I punched out the lenses in my transparent way-farers for a good pair of geek glasses, I swear they're the coolest thing since sliced bread”.


And on June 27th:
“These past couple nights have been quite odd. I would turn off the light to go to sleep and close my eyes and every time I blinked I would see like a model on the runway wearing something I've never seen, I guess outfits I've thought of subconsciously. What the hell does this even mean? Some sort of epiphany? I used to think of fashion as more of a hobby, the idea of perhaps making a career of it is becoming more real every day....”

On April 16 she told readers:

“Also, something interesting happened today at school that I would just like to share. In gym, I'm in golf (one day I will come to class wearing an argyle sweater and pom-pom hat) and we practice outside on the field. There's an alley next to one side of the field. I was on the other side, but I got the inside scoop (sound more middle-school-gossip-ish please?). An old man, 70 or so, in a dark purple van pulled up in the alley and asked for a few girls to get in his car. They didn't of course, but creepy much??? Reminds me of Family Guy. Ha. And then a few minutes later, someone pulled the fire alarm. Can you say intense? But this day just keeps getting better and better......”

Sadly, with all the attention from New York magazine – and possibly also child welfare authorities – Tavi appears to have signed off.

She tells her readers today:
“I'm sorry, I have to take a break. Not quite sure if I'll be coming back...I'll try to keep updating my weardrobe but I can't exactly guaruntee anything. Hate to throw all this dumb adolescence stuff here where it really doesn't need to be”.

Nicole Trunfio: Anointed by Vogue, trashed by Murdoch


img

You’ve got to feel sorry for Oz comeback queen Nicole Trunfio. One minute, she’s on the August cover of Vogue Australia (^) and hooked up with prestige international campaigns such as Guess? The next, her picture is being plastered all over the net adjacent to the term “Junkie Chic”. With rather a lot of tabloid assistance from Rupert Murdoch. Who, funnily enough, owns the Australian license to Vogue.

According to this snippet headed “Junkie Chic” in The New York Post’s Page Six gossip column yesterday, adjacent to a photograph of Trunfio:

“AMY Winehouse is hardly a role model, but Guess? is inspired by the drugged-out singer. A rep for Nicole Trunfio, the new face of the line, told Page Six her look "mimics the singer's iconic thick black eyeliner and infamous beehive, adding a little rock and roll to their pinup image." The scorching 22-year-old catwalker is also in the new BCBG Max Azria campaign, shot by Patrick Demarchelier”.


Just do a Google web search with the terms "Junkie Chic" and "Nicole Trunfio" and you'll see how many outlets picked up the Page Six story.

These are the potential pitfalls, presumably, of being asked to channel a figure as notorious as Winehouse for a fashion job.

But it's funny how commentaries can vary.

Recently (although I can’t locate the original item, this comes via a cut-and-paste job in TFS) the Fashionista blog picked up the Trunfio/Guess story, with this scan of a Guess? ad as well as these kinds words to say about Trunfio:

“The new Guess? ads are out, and they're great, but a little bit sad.

After all, if Amy Winehouse were healthy, she'd look exactly like this picture of a sultry beehived babe, as embodied by Aussie model Nicole Trunfio”.


tfs

And perhaps I’m not looking in the right places, however I can’t seem to find the words “Junkie Chic” splashed all over the net next to Coco Rocha’s name.

That's in spite of the fact that Rocha, a top Canadian model, recently appeared in no less than a Chanel campaign styled up to look very much like Winehouse:


fashionindie.com

Was Winehouse the muse for Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld?

On yes indeedy - well at least, as it happens, according to yet another Murdoch-owned tabloid on the other side of the pond.

On December 10, on the occasion of Chanel’s Paris-Londres pre-Fall 2008 fashion presentation in London, The Sun newspaper headlined its Chanel coverage with:
“WINEHOUSE IS THE BEES KNEES”

And then quoted Lagerfeld on his muse for the show’s styling, which included heavy cat’s eye eyeliner and beehive dos à la Winehouse.

Lagerfeld told The Sun:
“She’s a style icon.

“She is a beautiful, gifted artist. And I very much like her hairdo. I took it as an inspiration. Because, in fact, it was also Brigitte Bardot’s hairdo in the late 50s and 60s. And now Amy has made it her own style.

“So, when I saw her, I knew it was the right moment. Amy . . . she is the new Brigitte.’”

Neryl Walker: Censored by Angostura, blessed by Coca Cola


nip slip - neryl walker

And you thought it was (erstwhile graphic designer) Natalie Bloom behind the Bloom illustrations all this time? As it emerges, the hand behind all those kawaii cartoons on Bloom's cosmetic packaging – and notably the brand’s iconic character, Miss Bloom - is another Melburnian. I chanced upon Neryl Walker whilst researching illustrators – and was interested to read about her latest work.

The Neryl Walker website has a portfolio of work and a client list which reads something like this:

Shiseido
Goody
Nippon Vogue
Korean Vogue
Glamour Germany
Travel and Leisure
New York magazine
Allure
Red
New Woman (UK)
Ellegirl (UK)
Cleo
Cosmopolitan
Luci (Japan)
Chronicle Books
Walter Foster Publishing
Schurman Fine Papers
Harper Collins
Simon and Schuster
Penguin
Allen and Unwin
The Ink Group
Easienote


illustration for bloom cosmetics


Evidently however this is just a snapshot of Walker's clients.

On May 4th Walker launched her own blog, on which she discusses recent projects.

There is some artwork commissioned by Coca Cola for “tees and glasses” for the upcoming Beijing Olympics.

Walker nominates this illo as her favourite:



Then there is this recent gig for Angostura (pictured top ^) which Walker reports fell by the wayside due to a wardrobe malfunction – although one apparently initiated by Josephine Baker on this specific occasion, and not Janet Jackson.

Notes Walker on her blog:

“This was going to be used for an Angostura ad, but the nipple proved too much. The image was approved through the entire creative process without any hiccups and then deemed too racy after I completed the illustration. Good one. Censorship blows”.

There's no other store - for anyone over 18 - like David Jones


the david jones summmer 2008 show invitation

In what could be a first for Australian fashion, David Jones has banned under-18 models from its upcoming Summer 2008 showcase. That’s what model agents, and David Jones’ own fashion director Kelvin Harries told The Adelaide Advertiser yesterday, during Adelaide castings for DJs' big August 5 show which is coming up in Sydney.

Model agencies were obliged to provide written confirmation that models were over 18 and the models themselves asked to bring ID to the castings.

Harries is quoted as saying:
“Eighteen to 35 is the target audience and (we) need girls to reflect that”.

One unnamed industry source is quoted as saying that it’s the first time they can recall an under-18 ban.

It’s certainly the first occasion that I can think of. And it seems bizarre, given the big hoo-haa David Jones has made in recent years over the multimillion dollar upgrade of its youth-focussed first floor, not to mention the appointment of numerous “Youth Ambassadors” as young as 15, including Abbey Lee Kershaw and Samantha Harris.

The move follows hot on the heels of a spate of 2008 underage modelling controversies.

Firstly, the babymodel brouhaha at Australian Fashion Week which erupted after organiser IMG announced it would bring out Polish model Monika Jagaciak as the face of the event.

Initially there was no controversy at all, even after The Sunday Telegraph published a sexed-up image of Jagaciak: in full makeup, with lips parted and reclining on a spa bath, her white swimsuit moistened by shower jets. The shot was a PR handout from IMG.

On my Fully Chic blog, I subsequently pointed out that Jagaciak had been 13 at the time the image was taken. The blog erupted.

Vogue - which had used a 15 year-old girl on its cover in 2007 – then cancelled its cover shoot with Jagaciak. Two days later all under-16 models were banned from the event altogether.

In early May David Jones dropped legal action against the Australia Institute, over the latter’s 2006 paper Corporate Paedophilia: Sexualisation of Children in Australia. The Institute had accused several large local retailers, including David Jones, of exploiting children in marketing material.

Later that month, Australian photographer Bill Henson became embroiled in a child pornography scandal over images of naked teenagers in an exhibition at Sydney’s Rosyln Oxley 9.

The Henson obscenity investigation was dropped, however the child porn debate erupted again earlier this month when Art Australia used an image of a naked five year old girl on its cover in protest over the Henson debacle.

This week federal arts minister Peter Garrett proposed the establishment of a set of protocols for the artistic depiction of children.

Miranda Kerr features on David Jones' Summer 2008 show invitation (pictured above^) and she will of course be front and centre at the August 5 show.

The irony of a ban on under-18s will presumably not be lost on her.

In 1997, Kerr won the Dolly Magazine/Impulse Model Competition and was flown to Sydney to shoot for the magazine one week before her 14th birthday – prompting an outcry from the Australian media over the sexualisation of children.

Could the real issue here be that, in the challenging economic climate of 2008 – which has seen David Jones lose almost half its market value – cash-strapped young women have simply stopped buying David Jones’ clothes?

Irrespective of who is, or who is not, buying, frockwriter hears that David Jones may be dramatically cutting its show budget this season - by cancelling the regular touring fashion showcase.

Traditionally, once the big Sydney and Melbourne presentations have taken place, an entire month of dozens of smaller shows then roll out across the David Jones flagships in almost every state. Shows run several times a day, over several days, in each store.

This year, the Sydney show on August 5, followed by one in Melbourne the following week, are it.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Simon Wood - global authority on kicks


sneaker freaker

My Australian content in the June/July issue of WWD FAST - a youth-nosed sportswear magazine - includes a profile on photographer Joan Cameron Smith, some cool fashion product from Andrea & Joen and Marnie Skillings - and a full-page feature on Melbourne-based Sneaker Freaker founder Simon "Woody" Wood (^).

Wood's magazine has emerged as the sneaker bible, with Wood himself sought out for several sneaker collaboration projects.

The cover of issue #11 (below) shows the new Puma x Sneaker Freaker Blaze of Glory colab shoe which was released in April.

Here are some bits and pieces from the original iv which did not go into FAST:



Wood on the magazine's 2002 launch:

“The sort of community aspect didn’t exist then. And I think that’s where the magazine’s strength is. It sort of unites people. You can be into Nike, you can be into Puma, you can be into Adidas...but the magazine is relatively even-handed. I noticed on the opening night, we just let people know. We didn’t even have an email list. And I think 300 or 400 people turned up. That’s when I realized there were a whole lot of other guys, just like me, who were really into their shoes. And they were all so amazed that someone had actually done something.

“We didn’t have anything to model ourselves on. Seven years later, there’s so much in the way of online content. But there was nothing out there. I think there were about three or four websites about sneakers. So we might have been in the first half dozen of those. There’s probably, I don’t know, 2000 sneaker sites now. It’s crazy”.

The magazine's mission statement:

“There’s this age gap between the younger kids who are coming into it and anyone who is in their 30s who remembers these shoes from when they were kids. A lot of our articles are about educating kids about why the shoes were created, what they were used for, the athlete endorsements, what was happening in fashion at the time…. That’s why the Andre Agassi shoe was white/fluoro/pink/black, because he used to wear crazy, acid-wash denim outfits and had a peroxided kind of mullet. We’re sort of creating a history for 30 years of shoe design. It’s a fascinating subject because it is about sport, about fashion, about the fact that kids in Japan were really going crazy for this one thing and then it then gets exported to Europe and then America… Japanese streetwear is a splinter of that. It’s the most dominant force in fashion today. I think every company has a designer going to Japan and just basically ripping off everything that they see right now”.

The sneaker boom:

“Certainly in the last two years, the number of product developments has just gone through the roof. So there’s probably another half a dozen to twelve fads that have been brought back form the dead from the ‘70s and ‘80s. Brands like Troop, SPX… people are getting the licenses again and joining in the boom. It’s a bit like when a gold rush happens or the mining industry goes off in western Australia. Everyone kind of flocks in there and has a go. We’ve just seen so much product. To a large extent I suppose that’s also to do with the affordability of manufacturing in south east Asia, that’s a lot cheaper. But shoes are getting more expensive to make so it’s an interesting time”.




Sneakers which should never have seen the light of day:
“Pretty much every Skecher. I think as I’ve matured into my role as an editor, I’m able to step outside my own feelings and look at something. There are shoes that I’ll never understand and wear. Anything that is very slimline for example”.

On the made-in-Australia factor:
“They [many industry players] are surprised that something of that quality can come from somewhere that’s not America or Europe. On some issues we say where we’re from and on some we don’t. Often all it says is, ‘Made in Melbourne’. It has our website on the front cover and that’s it. We don’t feel like we haven’t been accepted because of it. But it makes us kind of exotic as well”.

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