Merry Christmas from Frockwriter

melise williams, charlie brown AW13 backstage, auckland, september 2012 

Just a quick one to say Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of frockwriter's readers. It's been a bit of a watershed year for this blog – one during which, as many know, we took the controversial step of introducing a metered paywall. Oops. Unable to support ourselves through advertising alone and disinclined to accept potentially lucrative brand ambassadorships, sponsored posts and a raft of other commercial tie-ins from the industry on which we report - because of ethics considerations and genuine conflicts of interest - we assumed readers who value the blog for its independence would support it. Some have and a massive shoutout to our subscribers. Your support is truly appreciated - especially considering how flipping easy it has been for all those pesky freehadists (yes there's a term for you now) to defeat the paywall. In their thousands. I now have access to frockwriter's subscriber list and have been overwhelmed to learn just who these supporters are. So thank you!

A salute to Kirstie Clements

vogue.com.au

The Australian fashion industry had a reality check yesterday, with the announcement that Kirstie Clements had been unceremoniously dethroned as editor of Vogue Australia. Unceremoniously is putting it kindly. According to The Sydney Morning Herald, Clements - up until yesterday the second longest-serving editor of the current Australian mainstream fashion magazine pack after Marie Claire's Jackie Frank - was escorted from the premises by security, with her phone confiscated [update 19/05: although Clements made no effort on Thursday or Friday on Twitter to correct this version of events - which we understand were witnessed by third parties - she has since denied to the SMH that her phone was confiscated or that she was escorted from the building]. The axing of two other senior NewsLifeMedia editorial executives at the same moment might have helped assuage the humiliation. This was business, after all, for News Limited, nothing personal. Given the accompanying press release, it was pretty clear that new News Limited ceo Kim Williams and his axe-woman, new NewsLifeMedia ceo Nicole Sheffield, had no idea just how personal a matter it would have been for Clements. They stated she had been Vogue's editor for 10 years, out of a total 13 years with the magazine. In fact, Clements was Vogue's editor for 13 years - but she originally joined the title in 1985 as a receptionist, before moving up through the ranks and briefly defecting to the newly-relaunched Harper's Bazaar in 1998. Some thank-you for almost 30 years of service to one of the world's greatest publishing brands.

Was Marion Hume fired from Vogue Australia for putting a black woman on the cover?

Naomi Campbell is never far from the headlines. On Sunday she managed to inadvertently embroil an Australian publisher in one. In a story headlined 'Editor sacked in racism row', Campbell told the UK Telegraph, "One time, I went to Australia. The editor-in-chief of a magazine there told me that she got fired for putting me on the cover. I do remember going there and saying, 'Where's the Aboriginal model? There should be one. They're beautiful women.'" No names are mentioned. But coincidentally, another Brit by the name of Marion Hume edited Vogue Australia for 18 months in the late 1990s, during which time she commissioned Peter Lindbergh to shoot Campbell for the June 1997 cover, above. In 1998 Hume was fired, following a controversial tenure, during which, it should be noted, she did not manage to stem the erosion of circulation and advertising that had begun prior to her appointment with the arrival of marie claire in 1995 and continued with the 1998 rebirth of Harpers Bazaar Australia. From 1995-1999 Vogue lost almost a quarter of its readers and two-thirds of its ad share. In 2002, Conde Nast withdrew from Australian publishing, selling the Vogue license to FPC Magazines, which in turn was acquired by News Limited in November 2006. 

Olivier Zahm christened "Smegmacula" by Vanity Fair

purple diary

Long time no Olivier Zahm update. Zahm, the editor of French T&A art magazine PURPLE FASHION magazine has been a regular on this blog, notorious not only for his resemblance to the late Australian lothario Michael Hutchence, but his propensity to post nude photos of himself and endless raunchy - some have suggested exploitative - images of women, interspersed with pics of his primary school age daughter Asia. Well someone has just accorded Zahm an extremely colourful moniker, but it’s not an anonymous hater on an under-the-radar web forum. Contributing editor of Vanity Fair, George Wayne has worked for the high profile US magazine for almost twenty years as, according to his bio notes, "the magazine’s intrepid Q&A correspondent and distinguished cultural arbiter, conducting his trademark, candid interviews with scores of subjects, from actors to politicians, to fellow journalists”. Here is what Wayne had to say about Zahm on the VF Daily blog on the Vanity Fair website on Thursday. Talk about candid:

“There is this smelly-looking Frenchman who swanned onto our social scene a few seasons ago who clearly fancies himself as the cat’s pajamas. He created and currently edits one of those edgy fashion magazines with an astute following. “Smegmacula,” as the G-Spot will refer to him henceforth (think “Smegma” meets “Dracula”), considers himself the hipster-louche playmaker of the Gotham demimonde. When G.W. spots the ubiquitous night crawler out and about, orchestrating a moment inside the scene’s chicest bon-chic-bon genre, one cannot help but wax poetic: “Oh, there’s Smegmacula. Wow—that purple crown of his must be ripe and florid right about now.”

purple diary

Wayne also recently distinguished himself by swallowing a Swarovski crystal during an episode of Kell on Earth, the new reality series of New York fashion publicist Kelly Cutrone.

Perhaps he’s still suffering the aftereffects.

Or perhaps Vanity Fair parent Condé Nast is simply feeling the indie heat in the midst of the media bloodbath.