Showcards: Chic Management (women) - MBFWA SS13/14

grace simmons via chic management

And now to the second instalment of frockwriter's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia Spring/Summer 2013/2014 model showcards series - a preview of the models who will be doing casting rounds in Sydney over the coming weeks, in the lead up to Australia's biggest fashion runway showcase. Chic Management usually heads into the event with a major show pack and this year is no exception. 

Tahnee delivers a body blow to the boganista

So Tahnee Atkinson has won Cycle 5 of Australia’s Next Top Model. That’s the terribly pretty, buxom, ANTM contestant who was once snarkily referred to as “fat” by another – long since jettisoned - ANTM contestant. Congratulations are of course due to Atkinson. But frockwriter gets the feeling she may not be the only one a little nonplussed by the result. After all, before the final ad break, Cassi ‘boganista’ van den Dungen was ahead by four votes to three with, significantly, votes from photographer Russell James, model agent Priscilla Leighton-Clarke, designer Alex Perry and Harpers Bazaar Australia fashion director Claudia Navone – the four members of the panel most closely-connected to the fashion business. “The public got you over the line Tahnee” noted host and co-executive producer Sarah Murdoch after making the announcement. It would be interesting to see the vote tally. Because in spite of the purported surge in popularity for Atkinson, heading into the competition those involved made no secret of their aspirations for the series. UPDATE 9/7: According to Murdoch's Twitter feed Atkinson received 82.5percent of the public vote. UPDATE 11/7: However in an opinion piece in The Daily Telegraph, Murdoch claimed Atkinson received 87percent of the vote and added, "in the end I just couldn't trust that Cassi would best represent the show and what I stand for". It should be noted that the Murdoch family-controlled News Corporation owns The Daily Telegraph and has a 25percent stake in Foxtel, which owns the Australian ANTM franchise.

Murdoch sits on the federal government's newly-formed body image advisory board, which has its second meeting, coincidentally, today.

At the ANTM auditions in late 2008, Murdoch told one newspaper:

“I am really pushing for a plus-size model this series because I am a big believer in healthy body types and encouraging girls to be the right body type”.

Oh July 1, Charlotte Dawson told The Daily Telegraph:

“I’d love to see someone like Tahnee win the competition on the body image thing.... size 10 with ample bosom and sexy bottom … if she won it would be sending a nice message out there”.

And look it’s probably just mere coincidence, and not related to ANTM at all, but when one local writer heading to last night’s live broadcast Tweeted mid afternoon yesterday that she was “going to i/v a model” - as distinct from two models - you wondered if the result may have already been in the can, hours before the voting had concluded. (UPDATE 9/7: According to sources, the interview was with Cycle 4 winner Demelza Reveley).






On the show, Atkinson herself made a play for the body image vote when she noted, “I have a body that teenage girls can relate to”.

Well that’s fine, but frockwriter can’t help thinking that the only way an “average” teenage girl would be able to relate to Atkinson's impressive figure would be by way of a boob job.

Teenage girls from relatively disadvantaged backgrounds, who are in need of orthodontics and some emotional stability, on the other hand, like van den Dungen - whose freight worker mother has admitted she was so cash-strapped at one point, her family lived on a staple diet of potatoes for four months – might well better relate to the “boganista” who turned into a butterfly.

While both girls are tall, van den Dungen, unlike Atkinson, has impossibly long, gazelle-like limbs, a long torso and small breasts.

Atkinson’s figure would be better suited to swimwear or lingerie – even if a photographer who actually works for Victoria’s Secret and Sports Illustrated, ie Russell James, did not think to give her his vote.

Already at RAFW, when van den Dungen and Clare Venema booked more shows than Atkinson, it was abundantly clear that even Australian fashion designers, who are known for casting much larger models than their European counterparts, did not think Atkinson was the right look for their shows.

Ah, the fashion industry, that cabal of fascists that is directly – and of course single-handedly - responsible for all the world’s body dismorphia, mental health and obesity issues.

For those who may be disappointed in last night’s ANTM result, it is well worth remembering that two of Australia’s most successful models – Gemma Ward and Myf Shepherd – were both rejects from Australian reality television shows. And that with, moreover, the right management and attitude, van den Dungen could go on to a successful career. It would have been nice to see her win something in her life, for a change - but ultimately she doesn’t need the ANTM crown.

But there remains one other major difference between van den Dungen and Atkinson that may have been overlooked, at least by some.

Unlike Atkinson – and indeed, Venema, who was eliminated from the Cycle 5 competition in the last week - van den Dungen was not a state finalist in the 2008 Girlfriend Model Search competition.

Although both were announced as state finalists in July last year, Atkinson and Venema mysteriously disappeared from the 2008 GMS competition after frockwriter looked into the rules of the competition and discovered that contestants who had already worked professionally, or were repped by agencies, were ineligible to enter.

After being alerted to the fact that both girls were with agencies and that according to her agency Scene, Atkinson, for one, had definitely done professional work, a Pacific Magazines representative told frockwriter that any finalists found to be in breach of the terms and conditions would be disqualified.

A number of parties appear to be asking the same question about Atkinson’s and Venema’s eligibility for ANTM – the rules of which do not, inconveniently, appear to be listed on the ANTM website.

On Monday, one website accused the ANTM producers of “hiding” Atkinson's and Venema's modelling experience.

Frockwriter spoke to Foxtel publicist Jamie Campbell yesterday to attempt to clarify the matter.

Is it against the ANTM rules for contestants to have previously been involved with a national modelling competition?

No, according to Campbell, who added that the rules only stipulate that contestants must not have modelled before. Campbell denied there was any veracity to an Adelaide Advertiser story from January 2008 which reported that Venema had been signed by IMG.

Campbell told frockwriter:

“We don’t allow girls who have been repped by another agency or who have modelled. None of girls have a current contract with any competition or modelling agency. That they’ve done some previous small time modelling isn’t an issue. Clare did not have a contract despite what was written. Tahnee did not have a contract with any agency”.

Win or lose, Karla Reid already has a two year modelling contract

karla reid/girlfriend via ninesmn.com.au

Yesterday frockwriter predicted that, given the babymodel brouhaha which erupted in Australia this year, Girlfriend magazine may have issues with its choice of a 12 year-old as state finalist in the 2008 Girlfriend Model Search. And so far two Australian media outlets have picked up the story. One point seems to have been overlooked. Both The Australian and ninemsn.com.au reported that Reid is in the running to win a two-year contract with the Chic Management model agency. As stated in the competition’s terms and conditions, reported by frockwriter yesterday – and as confirmed again today by Chic – Reid has already won a two-year modelling contract with the agency just by being a state finalist. The outright winner of the competition wins additional representation with Chic’s New York affiliate Next.

As Reid’s mother Karla Reid told ninemsn.com.au today, the Chic Management contract might not start "for a few years".

However she already has the contract.

And let's clarify something here, Chic Management is not a childrens' modelling agency.

According to frockwriter’s model industry sources moreover, sometimes it is in fact the parents who are pushing their kids into work, even if the agency wants to hold back.

There are highly reputable modelling agencies which do carefully monitor the type of work done by underage girls, as well as ensure that they are strictly chaperoned at all times.

Chic Management certainly appears to be one of them.

By the same token there are also disreputable agencies.

There are parents who allow underage girls to travel the world without chaperones.

And there are also apparently clients who either don’t know that the women who appear in the provocative images in their magazines/advertisements are underage – or who simply don’t care.

Not forgetting the creeps who leave comments (obviously unpublished) on blogs like this, saying precisely what they think about the girls in question.

Girlfriend, you better work

13 yr-old russian wannabe supermod katiusha/TO2W


Back in July – and by popular request (tks Voguettes) - frockwriter looked into the 2008 Girlfriend Model Search competition. Eyebrows were raised over this year’s state finalists, four of whom were already repped by model agencies - in direct contravention of the comp’s rules, which stipulate that entrants must not have either worked professionally or be agency-affiliated. An organiser told this blog that Girlfriend takes information provided by entrants in good faith and anyone found to be in breach of the guidelines would be disqualified. Well Girlfriend has just unveiled its six national finalists. And although none of the original quasi-pro four are among the names, frockwriter can’t help thinking that the magazine may have other issues with its final selection. One of the national finalists is 12.

Twelve year-old Karla Reid from Fitzgibbon, Queensland, is now in the running for the main title, the winner of which is to be announced in late November.

According to the Girlfriend website, each state finalist wins a 24-month contract with the Chic Management model agency.

In addition to other prizes, the overall 2008 winner of the Girlfriend Model Search competition wins an additional contract with Chic Management's New York affiliate agency Next.

As already reported by this blog, the Girlfriend Model Search entry criteria do stipulate a minimum age of 12.

According to Chic Models director Kathy Ward, previous winners have included a 13 year-old. The competition has springboarded the careers of a number of successful Australian models, including Catherine McNeil, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Sarah Stephenson and Alyssa Sutherland.

Tallulah Morton was of course just 13 when she opened Josh Goot’s Australian Fashion Week debut show in May 2005.

Following the April 2008 controversy over 14 year-old Polish model Monika Jagaciak, a 13 year-old would however of course no longer be able to take part in AFW, which now imposes a minimum age requirement of 16.

The latter controversy erupted over one specific, highly sexualised image of Jagaciak, taken when she was 13.

David Jones recently imposed an age minumim of 18 for its own shows.

“Babymodels” is not a new story.

In 1980, at the age of 14, Brooke Shields became the youngest model to appear on the cover of US Vogue, subsequently appearing in a controversial advertising campaign for Calvin Klein jeans.

However it does appear to be the case that that more young girls are now entering the business than ever before.

At least one model agent, Priscilla Leighton-Clarke, confirms this.

Modelling industry website The Ones 2 Watch recently showcased two extremely young girls: 13 year-old Katiusha from Russia and Noor from the Netherlands.

With a stated birth date of September 27 1995, Noor was most likely still 12 when her images appeared on TO2W website.

Some of the images of these girls are quite provocative. And precisely what is the point that is being communicated here by the girls' respective 'mother' agencies, which presumably supplied the images? To say, "Here's our latest sexy asset, she's ready to promote your products"?

In some images both Katiusha and Noor appear to be either wearing strapless tops – or perhaps no tops at all.

The latter certainly seems to be the intended inference:


noor/TO2W

Any parent who is considering actively encouraging their 12 year-old to enter the modelling profession would be well advised to consider the following.

The modelling industry experienced a dramatic shakeup in 1999 when the BBC's MacIntyre Undercover program alleged that models as young as 13 were being pressured into drugs and sex in Milan by people in positions of trust.

The scandal, which prompted stricter age regulations in some places (notably France), ensared two executives at the European division of Elite Models, then the world's biggest modelling agency - both tendering their resignations to Elite's board of directors.

One of them, Gerald Marie, is today back at the company - as the current president of Elite Paris.

Leaving Russian model mafia conspiracy theories out of the equation - for a moment - over the course of the past four months two models allegedly killed themselves by jumping out of multistorey apartment buildings.

One was Russian Ruslana Korshunova (20), in New York in June, the other Canadian Hayley Kohle (26) – who died last week in Milan. Coincidentally on the same night as 20 year-old American Randy Johnston, whose cause of death has yet to be confirmd.

That’s two suspected suicides out of a total four models who have died over the past four months.

Another Canadian, Diana O’Brien, was murdered in Shanghai in early July whilst on assignment.

Like many entertainment fields, modelling has always been a high pressure business.

But it seems the pressures have never been more intense.

Girlfriend Model Search: The plait thickens

Face of Schwarzkopf? GMS 2008 finalist Jessica Green (L)/Girlfriend

Just when you thought things couldn't get any more confusing vis-a-vis the terms and conditions of the Girlfriend Model Search - which, as mentioned yesterday, clearly state that entrants must have no professional experience or model agency affiliation - comes word that not only are four of the 2008 finalists already repped by agencies, one appears on packaging of the competition's naming rights sponsor.

The full name of the competition is The 2008 Girlfriend Schwarzkopf Live Colour Model Search.

Overnight came an anonymous tip that 2008 Brisbane finalist Jessica Green appears on Schwarzkopf's product packaging.

This was followed by a first-hand account of a 2007 Brisbane GMS roadshow at Westfield Carindale, at which Green - then a 2007 Brisbane finalist - was paraded in front of a large Schwarzkopf poster which featured her image on packaging for a Schwarzkopf Live product.


Jessica Green (L) amongst GMS 2007 finalists at the Westfield Carindale roadshow/B105.3FM Brisbane

Perhaps the arrangement with Schwarzkopf has changed in the interim. According to Girlfriend's website, although each 2008 state finalist wins a Schwarzkopf goodie bag, only the national winner of the 2008 competition will:

"feature in an ad for Schwarzkopf Live Colour and on the pack of a Schwarzkopf Live Colour product!"

I attempted to confirm Green's Schwarzkopf gig with her Brisbane agency, Dally's, however a representative has not returned my call.

Failing to locate an image of Green with the 2007 poster or product, I did nevertheless manage to track down a picture of the product. The model certainly bears striking resemblance to Green.

The image was not hard to find. It appears on the Girlfriend website.

Over and above the GMS terms and conditions mentioned in yesterday's post, I neglected to mention clause 2 [2.2]. It did not seem particularly relevant until now:

2. WHO CAN ENTER

2.2 You cannot enter the Competition if you or any close family member works for Pacific or any company associated with the Competition.

When contacted to see if she could throw any light on this development, Pacific Magazines' Michelle Vanderburg reiterated that judges take information provided by contestants in good faith - and that any finalists found to be in breach of the terms and conditions will be disqualified.

Vanderburg added that although the Schwarzkopf deal is a competition prize - and the model is not, she believes, paid - the packaging is nevertheless used in the marketplace.

But does she agree that a 2008 finalist being on the naming rights sponsor's packaging, and Girlfriend's website, is a bit of a joke?

"I have no comment" noted Vanderburg, who has been with Pacific Magazines for three months - and referred frockwriter to Chic Management.

Chic Management has been involved with the competition for many years and one might assume the agency would have recognised Green and her Schwarzkopf packaging.

Frockwriter has put in a second call to Chic Management's Ursula Hufnagel and we are waiting to hear back.

Meanwhile, in a July 5 email Chic director Kathy Ward said:

"The terms and conditions state that girls can't have done any paid modelling jobs to enter the competition. Not so much in Sydney but in most other states teenage girls do model courses with agencies which means they are with an agency but not actively working".

The Girlfriend Model Search: Level playing field - or getting played?

With Catherine McNeil, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Miranda Kerr among its most high-profile winners, the Girlfriend Model Search competition has more than proven itself as a new model incubator. But with a number of 2008 finalists already signed with agencies, and even some, like Tahnee Atkinson (above) already boasting professional experience - which is in breach of the competition's own rules - the question has been asked, is the competition fair?

"

Featured here are shots of 16 year-old Perth finalist Tahnee Atkinson.

They don't come from the Girlfriend website but in fact from the website of Scene Models, which reps Atkinson.



According to Scene Models' Perth-based general manager Anthony Harden, most of Atkinson's online portfolio shots are test shots done with various photographers.

Harden did however confirm that Atkinson has done "several professional jobs" - but declined to disclose what they were.

This DPS tear sheet looks to be one of them:



As it emerges, Atkinson is not the only 2008 finalist with an agency affiliation.

Of the 19 Perth, Brisbane and Adelaide finalists, four girls appear to already be listed with Australian agencies. The others are:

Jerrah Smith (Dally's, Brisbane)
Jessica Green (Dally’s, Brisbane)
Claire Venema (Finesse/IMG)

According to the competition's stated terms and conditions:

2.3 You cannot enter the Competition if you are currently represented by a modelling agency or have ever performed in any professional modelling capacity OR if you sign a contract with a modelling agency or start to perform in any professional modelling capacity during the Competition.

16. DISQUALIFICATION
e) they are or become represented by a modelling agency or have performed in any professional modelling capacity or start to perform in any professional modelling capacity during the Competition;

i) they have, in the opinion of Pacific, engaged in conduct in entering the Competition which is fraudulent, misleading, deceptive or generally damaging to the goodwill or reputation of the Pacific;

The rules also state that you can only enter the competition once. But does this mean you can only enter once a year? Here is Jessica Green featured in a newspaper as a 2007 finalist.

With the Sydney finals of the 2008 comp taking place this coming Saturday, at Westfield Liverpool, some are feeling despondent.

Notes one vogue.com.au poster:

"i was hoping to enter in sydney but now feel like i don't have any luck with all these signed models!"

What's going on?

That's what some have been asking on forums such as vogue.com.au and reportedly, Girlfriend's own online discussion forum. Until - at least according to those who say they took part in it - the latter was mysteriously taken down.

Pacific Magazines’ youth titles division publisher Michelle Vanderburg said that although this was the first she had heard of any GMS web forum censorship, the issue of professionals slipping into the competition had been brought to her attention yesterday.

State heat judging takes place over a period of five hours and in consultation with Sydney's Chic Management, which offers a two-year exclusive contract with its own model division and also New York affiliate agency Next, to the competition winner.

Judges take the information provided by entrants in good faith, Vanderburg added.

“If there are any girls in the five state finalists who are represented, working or signed with agency, they will be disqualified” said Vanderburg. “We write the terms and conditions with our legal team, in the best interest of our readers”.

But some feel those terms and conditions aren't being terribly rigorously enforced.

And the question remains of course, how many pro models might have previously entered the competition?

“Girlfriend needs to clarify the rules a little more so that there is very clear understanding before the kids enter - that they’re not to be with agencies or not to have done any professional work” noted Scene Models' Anthony Harden - who added that Tahnee Atkinson is not currently under contract to Scene.

“That opens up a question maybe for all competitions" said Harden. "It comes down to what the magazine is looking at. Are they wanting to find a fresh face that nobody else has worked with in the past? I’m surprised that this issue is still surfacing, because obviously it’s been going for a long time”.
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