Lover comes back

It’s been a long time in between Lover shows at RAFW. Five years to be precise. The Black Rose Army collection, shown in May 2006, was staged in a grungy, inner-city dive. Last night’s presentation of The White Serpent SS1112 collection demonstrates that this Sydney brand with a global cult following, which celebrates its 10 year anniversary this year, has most certainly come of age. A slick, ultra-sophisticated affair staged inside the Sydney Opera House, the collection was dazzling in its simplicity. Rendered in a three note palette of ivory, black and scarlet red, the collection flirted with masculine/feminine stereotypes: ivory tuxedos and jumpsuits with ultra wide-legs and mannish, oversized jackets were layered over sheer white blouses with pie-crust collars and lace inserts, then segued into a suite of killer lace dresses. Although the lace dress is a Lover signature, these sophisticated versions said not so much Woodstock free spirit as red carpet siren and they could give Collette Dinnigan a run for her money. 

RAFW Spring/Summer 2011/2012 - The commuter edition

Australia's most high profile fashion event, Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, runs from May 2-6. As per tradition, frockwriter has been making a list and checking it twice, ahead of the official release by organiser IMG Fashion Asia Pacific. Two years may have passed since the abbreviated "Recessionista edition", but that does not mean that retail is still not incredibly tough. Or that sponsors are not thin on the ground. Two longstanding RAFW partners will not be showing: Nicola Finetti, who has shown at the event every year since its 1996 launch and New Zealand's Zambesi. You can catch them in their showrooms. Also AWOL this season: Friedrich Gray, with designer Ben Pollitt taking a break from not just RAFW, but in fact putting his label on ice. The good news: among the big names showing are two of Australia's best-known designers, both returning to the schedule after several years showing in New York and London - Toni Maticevski and Josh Goot. Update 21/04: Good to see that Romance Was Born finally got over the line with its show plans. Although technically not on schedule, their slot is the next best thing: an unofficial kickoff to the week on the afternoon of Sunday May 1st. 

Josh Goot, Lover and male genitalia

Just seen Josh Goot at the old Qantas building at Chifley Square. They used the front foyer area which is apparently being converted into a bank but which for the moment is just an empty shell, with a bare concrete floor. Brilliant backdrop to Goot's space age tracky couture.

With the Lover show in the last spot last night, overnight internationals have been treated to two of Australia's best new designer names.

Given the floor-to-ceiling glass window at the Chifley Square venue, passersby also had a peep at Goot's collection. Quite a crowd gathered. Not sure just what many punters would make of his silver tracksuit pants and trench coats but they're flying off the shelves where he's stocked in Australia - and more and more stores overseas.

Lover meanwhile was shown in a tiny grungy warehouse space in Surry Hills. It had an edgy vibe, also a great canvas on which to paint the Lover show.

Designed by Susien Chong and Nic Briand, this label is going off overseas. Their sweet, Victorian-look smock dresses and highwaisted chambray and khaki microshorts are sure to prove yet more hits.

Bumped into Tsubi's Dan Single again outside that show. Twice in the one day - but no evils this time.

Tsubi were supposed to be doing a photo exhibition tonight but have apparently canned it. The wide-sweeping buzz had it that they photographed their new sunglasses range on male genitalia.

Makes a change from those pictures of bare-bottomed women in ungainly poses draped over motorbikes and cars.


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