In with the new - David Jones Autumn/Winter 2011

Tuesday's David Jones show felt the same, but different, to previous years' events. There was no Mark McInnes, Colette Garnsey, Miranda Kerr or even sass & bide. With the exception of relatively recent fashion ambassador addition Kerr, all had been front-and-centre at the show for almost a decade, laying the foundations for the "house of brands" into which the department store subsequently evolved. Taking their places and for a variety of different reasons - which ranged from scandal and resignations, pregnancy and defection, all in the space of eight months - was a new management team (albeit one promoted from within) and a swag of new labels, the absolute standout of which on the night just had to be Josh Goot and his colourblocked bodycon dresses and tulip skirts and tops with wildly expressionistic graphics. Not forgetting some highly polished Australian modelling talent, that included girls who have walked for some of the world's biggest fashion brands: Nicole Trunfio, Alexandra Agoston, Myf Shepherd, Stephanie Carta, Tiah Eckhardt and Christina Carey. And some newcomers who may soon follow them. Think Rosemary Smith (above, in Josh Goot), who is off to the European shows with at least one big name in her appointment book. Click (here) for frockwriter's Posterous pic gallery of backstage shots taken before and during the show. 
 

Models in a hurry - backstage at the Newgen show

 
Meant to get out to my seat for this show, but wound up getting caught backstage. Kent Vaughan and I shot from two different angles backstage, capturing a little of the split-second timing and drama that goes into getting the models out onto the runway in their next looks. This group show featured four new New Zealand names: Kathryn Leah Payne, Maaike, Céline Rita and Riddle Me This. The standouts were definitely Maaike, Emilie Pullar’s brilliant new knitwear label and  Kathryn Leah Payne, who designed all the acrylic jewellery that accompanied her collection. See frockwriter’s Posterous for more images.  

Ruby Jean Wilson is wearing a pair of bright orange running shorts at Karen Walker

How do we know? Because here she is backstage just before Walker’s show, shot a matter of minutes ago by Sonny Vandevelde (who clearly, had access to wifi). Wilson is another antipodian at New York Fashion Week and so far she’s walked in Lacoste. Just on Sunster FYI, his second exhibition at New York’s Tribeca Grand Hotel opened on Monday and runs until 12th October. Then from September 15-19, a new exhibition, ‘Sonny Vandevelde – Backstage Life’, will run in Paris as part of the Rives de la Beauté festival. That will make his fourth exhibition this year, after the Mars Gallery show during the L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival in March and the ‘Crazy Beautiful’ group show of backstage Rosemount Australian Fashion Week photography, which just wrapped at Sydney's Queen Victoria Building. Having just added V Magazine this season to his client list, dude’s on a roll...

Andrejyny

john galliano SS11 backstage/sonny vandevelde

Frockwriter mentioned that upwardly mobile Australian model Andrej Pejic made his international catwalk debut on Thursday in Paris in the Jean Paul Gaultier show. Well he had his second Paris runway outing yesterday courtesy of another equally high profile designer: John Galliano. There are two days left of the mens shows, where might he pop up next? Update 27/6: The answer is Raf Simons and, according to backstage snapper Sonny Vandevelde, today's Paul Smith show. The Paris runways are a long way from the east European refugee camps via which Pejic and his Serbo-Croatian family fled war-torn Bosnia in the 1990s before settling in Melbourne, where he attended University High School (whose other alumni include playwright David Williamson, entertainer Olivia Newton-John and MTV VJ Ruby Rose). Modelling for two years, full-time for one, Pejic's first modelling job was a cover - for Oyster magazine. Head to Sonny's blog to see more of Pejic and his runway colleagues backstage before and during Galliano's Charlie Chaplin-inspired show and the rest of the mens shows, including Gaultier, Issey Miyake and Dries van Noten.

Women are from Venus, Sonny Vandevelde to show at Mars

There are lots of reasons to check out the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival, which runs from March 14-21 at venues around Melbourne. Listening to Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa and Calvin Klein Inc's Executive Vice President of Global Communications (and Sydney expat) Malcolm Carfrae wax lyrical on helming a fashion superbrand at the Business Seminar on March 19 is one of them. As is checking in to see the sophomore exhibition of Belgralian backstage ace Sonny Vandevelde at Mars Gallery from March 13-28. Currently snapping the New York shows, the Sunster will just manage to make the opening after the FW1011 season wraps in Paris on March 10. Above is the flyer.

Sonny Vandevelde backstage at the FW1011 menswear shows

vivienne westwood FW1011/sonny vandevelde

If you're a regular reader of this blog then you would already be familiar with the name Sonny Vandevelde: the Belgian Australian (aka Belgralian) photographer who has, in frockwriter's humble opinion, transformed backstage fashion photography into an art form. Sonny usually photographs the major womens' runway seasons, but he's on assignment in Paris at the moment completing his first menswear collections, shooting for a variety of publications. Click here to see Sonny's Milan FW1011 menswear slideshow on New York's ubercool Hintmag. And here to see his Paris FW1011 Hintmag gallery, which will be updated to include the latest shows - which wrap up tomorrow. And of course Sonny's blog for others. Frockwriter mentioned Sonny's mini retrospective in New York in September. Come March, he's having a similar show as part of the Melbourne Fashion Festival. Why he hasn't been snapped up by a major retailer or brand for a campaign is beyond me. Of course there was this Old Navy revamp - whose art director in fact used Sonny's shots for the campaign mockup (sighted by me), only to commission another photographer to copy his style. Sucks, but that's life. Ditto getting his heart broken by Lara Stone. But that's another story...

Jayson Brunsdon backstage at RSFF

They had ballerina hair and ballerina-inspired footwear. Herewith a backstage portfolio from Kent Vaughan of last night's Jayson Brunsdon Spring/Summer 0910 show, which opened the 2009 Rosemount Sydney Fashion Festival - a consumer event that presents in-season collections. A glamorous, softly-toned collection of silk shirtwaisters, cocktail shorts, embellished halter tops and draped goddess gowns, it was originally inspired by the "classic Australian woman", as epitomised by Brunsdon's mother Dorothy and unveiled at RAFW in May. Frockwriter was busy snapping backstage shots in real-time to upload to Twitter and shooting a live-stream video (below) - to the hilarious commands of "Rock and roll!" from one backstage snapper as the girls exited the runway to head backstage. The show was opened and closed by RSFF face Elyse Taylor, with plenty of other local highprofilers, including Rachel Rutt, Vanessa Milde, Simone Kerr and NZ's Georgia Fowler.
























all photos: kent vaughan