Thursday, June 18, 2009

Carry On Pirelli: Kerr, Kershaw and McNeil rubber up for Terry Richardson


menstyle.it via fashionologie

Last month much ado was made of the decision by Australian Victoria’s Secret Angel Miranda Kerr to be photographed naked and chained to a tree on the cover of Australian Rolling Stone. Kerr, the face of the Australian Koala Foundation's 'No Tree, No Me' campaign, did it for the koalas, reportedly telling the magazine, “I feel strongly about the need to protect our natural environment because it supports our life -- it really is that simple". Well apparently the koalas have migrated to Brazil, because in a portfolio of images released overnight by Italian Vanity Fair, Kerr is naked again – along with two other topless compatriots, Catherine McNeil and Abbey Lee Kershaw, coincidentally all from Chic Management – posing nude in Brazil for Pirelli’s 2010 calendar. And the world’s most-famous girlie calendar takes on Carry On proportions this year, thanks to photographer Terry Richardson, who has made a career out of his risqué – and even sexually explicit – imagery. Warning NSFW.

The shots revealed so far of Kerr and Kershaw seem relatively demure compared with some others.

Notably, one shot of Hungarian Eniko Mihalik with Richardson, in which the pair appear to both be simulating fellatio with bananas. Another shows Brit Daisy Lowe standing next to Richardson whilst spraying herself with a hose - which is being held by Richardson just in front of his groin, suggesting the hose is his penis.

And moreover, the shot of Mcneil (above) standing in what appears to be a rubber plantation, whilst pouring a cup of of rubber milk down the front of her body.

Yes we all know what Richardson is implying the rubber milk could be.

The image is reminiscent of Richardson’s famous shot of South African model Josie Moran for Italian fashion brand Sisley, in which Moran simulates fellatio with a cow’s udder:


terryrichardson.com


The heterosexual porn innuendo is interesting, given that by all accounts McNeil’s sexual preference is for women, not men.

But look, frockwriter is sure that all the models were paid a lot of money to do this calendar. And at the end of the day, apparently that's all that counts to the models and their agents.

Come Christmas however, Kerr might want to keep the calendar under wraps when she is due to unveil her new book aimed at motivating and inspiring teenagers.

Unless of course Kerr renames the book, which is currently called Treasure Yourself, as Pleasure Yourself.





all four images above: menstyle.it via fashionologie


Richardson likes to blur the boundaries between art and porn in his fashion imagery and he is paid handsomely by the industry to do so.

Richardson was paid $200,000 for one Lee Jeans campaign in Australia in 2006 - a campaign which caused a minor furore at the time.

But there is nothing soft porn about Richardson’s personal work, which includes explicit images of himself having sex with a variety of women, some of them reportedly his assistants, and some of them ostensibly aspiring models.

That’s all well and good and civil libertarians would argue that Richardson, a recovered heroin addict, is entitled to express his art in whatever means he likes. Provided of course the models he uses are over the age of 18. On his website, Richardson specifies that models need to be 18+.

Even Barack Obama appears to endorse Richardson, because here he is shaking the photographer's hand:


terryrichardson.com

Frockwriter would hazard a guess that if Obama was fully apprised of the extent of Richardson's oeuvre, he would not want either of his daughters anywhere near Richardson.

High profile New York womens blog Jezebel recently published a link to a Guardian story about the new Picture Me documentary made by model Sarah Ziff.

The documentary recounts a number of alarming incidents. There are accounts of models as young as 14 being pressured into nudity on fashion shoots. One model claims she was sexually assaulted whilst working on a fashion shoot.

In a separate incident, Sena Cech tells the filmmaker she attended a casting session for which she was required to strip and then touch the genitals of an unnamed male photographer - who by that stage had also removed his clothes.

Cech says she did as she was asked and was subsequently offered the job, but turned it down. She was never offered work by the same photographer again.

It is not clear if Richardson was interviewed for, or is even mentioned in, the documentary.

However Jezebel chose to illustrate its story with a cropped version of this image of Richardson enjoying a hand-job. The provenance of the image is unclear. It may be part of Richardson's 2004 book/exhibition Terryworld (linked above).

Jezebel’s clarification noted that the image was used because Richardson himself had once glibly noted the following in a public domain interview:
"It's not who you know, it's who you blow. I don't have a hole in my jeans for nothing."

Many are no doubt wondering just who Sena Cech's unnamed photographer might be.

As indeed some are wondering if Sarah Ziff, who is now a fulltime student at Columbia University, could be yet another candidate for Jezebel’s anonymous model blogger Tatiana - who, coincidentally, penned that post.


terryworld/taschen

But the Picture Me revelations may merely scratch the surface of a much wider problem in the fashion business.

Frockwriter recently raised questions over some unsettling imagery which appeared on the UK Ponystep website, involving a series of young male models in Calvin Klein underwear. The story was picked up by BlackBook and Jezebel.

We have since heard some disturbing allegations about precisely what some young male models claim they have been required to do on some major fashion jobs.

Just to clarify, none of these allegations involve Terry Richardson.

But they do involve at least one other high profile male photographer.

For the moment, noone is willing to go on the record.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Cut-price Diesel



When the going gets tough, the tough cut prices - and we’re not just talking end-of-season sales. Today WWD reports that Dolce e Gabbana plans to cut prices from 10-20percent across both its main line and the D&G label. “This is the only way to save the market and our companies. It’s time to turn the page” Domenico Dolce tells WWD. Now frockwriter can reveal that another major Italian fashion player, Diesel, is planning to restructure its prices in Australia, shaving 27-47percent off the retail prices of its jeans in this market.

According to a Diesel spokesperson the entry level Matic (above) and Viker (below) styles, currently A$290, will be reduced by 31percent to $199, while the brand's most expensive jeans, currently A$940, will dive 47percent down to $500.

Fifty percent of Diesel’s Australian denim sales are in the $350-550 price bracket. From next month, those jeans will sell for $290-450 and from March 2010, $219-399.

The Diesel news follows one high profile Australian premium denim casualty - 18th Amendment. But also, curiously, new data from US analyst the NPD Group, suggesting that premium denim is one of the few pockets of growth in the difficult economic climate.



both pictures: courtesy diesel

Monday, June 15, 2009

Seventy thousand were nuked in Nagasaki. Now you can buy the T-shirt from Christopher Kane


style.com (L)
mushroom cloud over nagasaki/AP via nuclearfiles.org

It has been a few days since frockwriter raised questions about the provenance of the mushroom cloud graphics in Christopher Kane’s Resort 2010 collection. Kane told Style.com the images depicted “nuclear test explosions from the '50s to the '70s” and were sourced from the “free public-access database” of the UK Ministry of Defence.

Frockwriter asked, did Kane require permission for commercial use of the images and if so, had the MOD licensed him to make a nuclear fashion statement? This might prove awkward, we noted, in light of the recent compensation case initiated by 1000 war veterans over radiation exposure incurred during the MOD's 1950s atomic tests.

Although the MOD confirmed a license would be required for the commercial use of its images, the organisation has yet to get back to us with any other information.

Meanwhile, Kane’s sister and business partner, Tammy Kane, told frockwriter there is no link to the Atomic Veterans Group case and that although the graphics were “inspired by the images on the MOD website”, no MOD images were used. The images were sourced, she added, from “more conventional picture sources”, with all necessary consents duly organised.

Why drag the MOD's name into it? No response.

Would she provide the real source? Not a chance.

Noted Tammy Kane, “We don’t intend to reveal the source of the images. We have enough problems with people copying our work without making it even easier for them”.

Unfortunately for the Kanes, you don't need to be a nuclear astrophysicist to track down some of the images. And one of these images has nothing to do with atomic tests.

Page one of a quick Google Image search under the term “mushroom cloud” yields two images which bear uncanny resemblances to those used in at least three garments from the collection.

Most notably, one black and white T-shirt is emblazoned with a mushroom cloud print that shares at least 30 commonalities with - and appears identical to - one of the best-known photographs of WWII (both pictured above ^).

The original image was taken on August 9, 1945, three minutes after the US Air Force dropped a 21 kiloton atomic bomb on the Japanese port town of Nagasaki, killing 40,000 people instantly, with an additional 30,000 estimated to have died from injuries and radiation exposure.

The Nagasaki blast, which prompted Japan’s surrender, came of course three days after an even more devastating US nuclear attack on Hiroshima, which killed 70,000 instantly and an estimated 200,000 within five years.

Here is the original image, credited to the US Air Force via Associated Press:


AP/daylife.com

There are many reproductions of the Nagasaki image online. This one bears the closest resemblance to the image in the Kane print.

Wikimedia claims the photograph is in the public domain because it is a work of a US military or Department of Defense employee, taken/made during the course of an employee's official duties.

Frockwriter is curious just how well the T-shirt will fare in the Japanese market.

There are also many similarities between another historic image - this time taken during the Cold War - and a print on Kane's blue and yellow sheath dress which featured on page one of Style.com last week:


christopher kane Resort 2010/style.com


The striking horizontal band of light in the middle of the cloud, the shapes of the smaller, darker clouds at the base and even the degradation of blues which appears at the top of the original image, depicting a mountain range - and which have been incorporated into the neckline of the dress - are identical.

The original image was taken on June 24th 1957 and shows the detonation of a 37 kiloton bomb called Priscilla at the Nevada Test Site, part of a series of US atomic tests called Operation Plumbob (aka Operation Plijmbbob) which were conducted between May and October that year.

Although in several places online a colourised version of the image is credited to Associated Press, the original source appears to be the United States Department of Energy. Wikimedia credits the photo to the National Nuclear Security Administration – a separate body that was created by US Congress in 2000 within the USDOE.


USDOE via lucente.org


Acording to Wikimedia, this image is also in the public domain in the US.

Over two hundred thousand military personnel, workers and civilians are estimated to have been exposed to radiation as a result of US nuclear activities during WWII and the Cold War – with most of that exposure incurred in and around the Nevada Test Site.

In observance of the US government's role in the immediate, and potential longterm, health impacts of this radiation exposure, a raft of legislation has since been passed by US Congress, including the Veterans’ Dioxin and Radiation Exposure Compensation Act (1984), the Radiation-Exposed Veterans Compensation Act (1988) and the Radiation Exposure Compensation Act (1990).

Of his reasons for choosing the mushroom cloud prints for his Resort 2010 collection, Kane told Style.com:

“I wanted something natural, but I'm so fed up with florals”.


Saturday, June 13, 2009

Christopher Bailey, MBE



Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey is edging closer and closer to that Burberry Prorsum logo (a medieval knight on a horse). One hour ago, the Queen's 2009 birthday honours list was announced and Bailey, who joined the iconic British luxury house in 2001, has just been welcomed into the Order of the British Empire as a Member, for services to the British fashion industry. Bailey has a couple of rungs to go on the British order of chivalry before he is eligible to be knighted. But with a few more excellent Burberry collections under his belt, not to mention some more genius campaign casting, there may be no stopping him (well, unless he's a republican). Also just uploaded: a behind-the-scenes video of the making of Burberry's F/W 09/10 collection which stars Harry Potter star Emma Watson. The campaign was shot on the banks of the Thames in London, adjacent to Burberry's HQ, which is staffed by 800 across admin, design/photo studios and a cafe. The Watson get, and MBE, are good news for the 153 year-old company in the tough economic climate, which saw Burberry post a loss of 6 million pounds in the year ended March 31st. Also just awarded an MBE: Natalie Massenet, founder of e-tailer Net-à-Porter.com, which sells Burberry (among many other luxury brands) - but conversely experienced a 234percent profit hike in 2008.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Christopher Kane taps the British government to make a nuclear fashion statement


christopher kane Resort 2010/style.com


You may recall the furore over Kate Sylvester’s use of war medals in the styling of her 2008 Rosemount Australian Fashion Show in Sydney. Well frockwriter can’t help wondering if Scottish fashion darling Christopher Kane might be heading down a similar path. Overnight, prominent fashion website style.com gushed over images of Kane’s “first-ever pre-collection” on its homepage, complete with headline, “It’s the bomb”. The collection’s mushroom cloud graphics were sourced, at least according to style.com - which is owned by Condé Nast, calls itself the online home of Vogue and is regarded as an authority, so we must assume that the details are correct - from “free public-access photos” on the UK Ministry of Defence website. Kane told the website, “I wanted something natural, but I'm so fed up with florals. And then I came across these images of nuclear test explosions from the fifties to the seventies on the Internet. I like the crazy-bright chemical colors. The way they're sinister—but beautiful". UPDATE 15/6: SEVENTY THOUSAND WERE NUKED IN NAGASAKI. NOW YOU CAN BUY THE T-SHIRT FROM CHRISTOPHER KANE.



screen grab/style.com

On her collection review, style.com’s senior fashion critic, Sarah Mower, a Brit, makes the following quip:

“The dresses in Christopher Kane's first-ever pre-collection radiate instant-appeal commerciality in just enough of a subversive way to be interesting”.



christopher kane Resort 2010/style.com


There are potentially several problems with this. It is interesting that noone sought to clarify the details.

Firstly, if you decide to use images of nuclear testing to make some kind of artistic or political statement, why not get a designer to conjure up exclusive graphics? Kane makes no mention of a political statement, simply that he was jack of florals.

Secondly, there’s the issue of copyright. Here are the MOD's terms and conditions for the use of the images in its database:

“The material featured on this website is subject to Crown Copyright protection unless otherwise indicated. The material may be downloaded to file or printer for the purposes of non-commercial research and private study.

Any other proposed use of the material is subject to a copyright licence available from the Ministry of Defence in accordance with standard Crown Copyright licensing policy”.


Frockwriter was unable to locate the images which Kane claims to have used for the graphics in the MOD database. It's unclear if, due to the time frame, any British government images from the 1950s would be considered public domain.

Did Kane seek permission to use the images for commercial purposes or was he just "inspired" by them, in the same way that Shepherd Fairey was directly inspired by an Associated Press image of Barack Obama for Fairey's iconic HOPE poster of the 2008 US presidential campaign? The case became mired in controversy.

In the extremely unlikely scenario that the MOD in fact licensed Kane to reproduce military imagery to make nuclear war a fashion statement, a number of people would most likely have issues with this.

Starting with the Atomic Veterans Group: 1000 British, New Zealand, Fijian and Australian war veterans who, just last Friday, won a five-year battle to sue the British government for compensation over a raft of health problems which they claim are the direct result of exposure to radiation during the government’s atomic tests in the South Pacific and Australia between 1952 and 1958.

Although the majority of the group is British, it includes 200 New Zealanders, 180 Fijians and approximately 30 Australians.

The retired servicemen were among 25,000 forces who were exposed to the tests. Air and naval servicemen were, reportedly, ordered to pass close to the testing, with ground forces provided with scant protection.

Earlier hearings concluded that the British government and military administration of the day had withheld information about the dangers of the testing.

Don James, who was stationed on Christmas island during five tests in 1958, told The Guardian on Friday:

"We had no special kit. They just told us to turn your back to the blast and cover your eyes. You could see the bones in your fingers."

Friday’s High Court ruling has also greenlit the compensation claims of hundreds of other Australian, New Zealand and Fijian war veterans who participated in the testing program.

Update 11.00pm: Comment is being sought from both Kane and the UK Ministry of Defence, the latter nevertheless confirming that a license would definitely be required for use of the images. The MOD is looking into whether or not this was obtained by Kane.

Neil Sampson, a partner of the London-based Rosenblatt Solicitors, who has led the Atomic Veterans Group case, said he would be "astounded" to learn that the MOD licensed the images to Kane - or that Kane's use of the atomic test images at this time was coincidental.

"In June 2009, when the UK Ministry of Defence's role in the development of atomic warfare is on the front pages of newspapers throughout the world, it seems a little cynical" Sampson told frockwriter. "But I could ask, since when has advertising not been cynical and opportunistic?"


Saturday, June 6, 2009

Rachel Rutt cruises into New York


3.1 philip lim resort 09/wwd.com

Well we told you that Rachel Rutt was Chic Management’s breakout star of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week 2009 and that she was New York-bound last month. Well just as Chic's hot RAFW 2008 ticket Myf Shepherd walked straight out of Sydney and into a couple of prominent collections in the 2009 Resort season, Rutt is off to a flying start. She was the only girl in WWD's slideshow showcase of the Resort 2010 collection of stellar New York name 3.1 Phillip Lim (while Sydney's Tallulah Morton was one of two girls booked by Lim for his own lookbook of the collection, as shown on style.com). Rutt was also booked by Doo.Ri for her Resort collection lookbook, with the images appearing on both WWD (below) and style.com. Frockwriter will take a bet this is just the beginning. Update 10/06: Rutt made models.com's Of The Minute column today.


doo.ri resort 09/wwd.com

Zambesi's speed racer


angie tinker


Frockwriter mentioned that Zambesi’s Neville Findlay is a rev head. Here’s a shot of the co-founder of the iconic Kiwi fashion label – which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year – that was just snapped at the Taupo Motorsport Park for today's second and final round of the 2009 North Island Endurance Series, a four-hour race. Findlay qualified fifth. As you can see, Findlay has upgraded from his brother’s Datsun 260Z, that he raced in March, to what we understand is a very rare BMW ZM coupe. We also have it on good authority that Findlay and his wife/business partner and the head Zambesi designer, Liz Findlay, are making a real weekend of it – having booked the honeymoon suite at Lake Taupo’s luxury motor lodge Chantilly’s. Can a Zambesi-customised car be far away?

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Creative Sydney: Advance Australia flair


candy bowers/flickr

Over the past fortnight I’ve been called a Fun, Fearless Female (thanks Cosmo), a Creative Catalyst (thanks Creative Sydney) and a c***face (thanks Tallulah Morton – who has since self-censored her MySpace page). And although I am still scratching my head over my inclusion on the inaugural Creative Catalysts list, I feel very honoured to have been ranked amongst such a creative coterie. I must admit, I did chuckle when I read that I had been accorded a nod for services including “...testing the limits of the online medium” – and consider it a vote of confidence in all the RAFW Twitter artists, and of course, the Bluralism movement. Last night, I had the great pleasure of taking part in a Creative Sydney panel event called Reaching the World, which included the following speakers.

Hip hop artists Candy Bowers and Morgan Lewis, textile designer Liz Casella from Karolina York, sustainable furniture designer Michael Alvisse from Schamburg + Alvisse and Kate Bezar, the founder and editor of the Dumbo feather, pass it on magazine.

For anyone unfamiliar with the latter title, the name refers to to the Walt Disney character Dumbo the circus elephant, who believed he needed a magic feather to fly.

Four times a year, Bezar publishes five 4,500-word interviews with people who have pursued their creative passions and dreams.

My favourite line of the evening came from Bowers, the first speaker, who has performed at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival but claims to have been told by one Australian television executive:

“Australian television isn’t ready for you yet”.

Having worked in Australian commercial television, I don’t doubt her for a moment.

Presumably what needs to happen for Bowers to get a mainstream media guernsey here is to first be discovered by an international network - and then return a star.

It's wonderful to see creativity being celebrated in Australia for once – and not just sport. I could have listened to the speakers for the entire evening and would highly recommend others make an effort to attend the remaining events.

Well done to organiser/panel moderator Jess Scully and the Creative Sydney team – not to mention the NSW government, which has funded the initiative.

It would be great to see an ongoing program like this roll out around Australia.

As noted by Scully in her signoff last night, let’s keep this conversation going people.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Sydney’s Fashion and Film Festivals hook up for a nuclear Wintour


screen grab the september issue/arp.tv

It premiered January 16th at Sundance and will be released in the US in September. But here’s a little incentive to attend next week’s launch of the 2009 Rosemount Sydney Fashion Festival. Organiser IMG FASHION Asia Pacific has partnered up with the Sydney Film Festival and RSFF's somewhat genius launch party is the Australian premiere of RJ Cutler’s much-hyped Anna Wintour/US Vogue frockumentary, The September Issue. Details (subject to change): Thursday 11th June, 8.30pm red carpet, 9.15pm screening, 11.00pm afterparty. By invitation only (see IMG). By all means move at a glacial pace towards the RSVP hotline. You know how that thrills AW.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

The Silence of the Birkins


kent vaughan

Who killed Bambi and Basil Brush? Hermès did! But here’s the good news: the august luxury leathergoods house is trying to bring them and their critter buddies back to life using the powers of visual merchandising. The flash new front window display in Hermès’ flagship Australian store, on the corner of Elizabeth and Market Streets, boasts a kind of Re-animator theme. According to Hermès' VM head Nicole Morgan – who also doubles as the company's Oz PR – the windows depict a mad scientist mixing fragrances in his laboratory in a bid to resuscitate a series of stuffed animals. The Boyac-wallpapered cabinet of curiosities showcases several deer, a warthog, wallaby, buffalo, horse, zebra, eagle and a grey squirrel – which looks to be relieving himself on a vintage Kelly bag.

Not everyone is going to like the contents of these windows, but in frockwriter's opinion, if other Sydney retailers demonstrated half of Hermès’ imagination and initiative with their visual merchandising, we’d have a much more vibrant retail landscape.

Like many other luxury leathergoods houses, Hermès uses leather, fur and exotic skins to make its products. Among the items showcased are a crocodile skin clutch and a deerskin cap hanging adjacent to the warthog (frankly, frockwriter thinks the warthog should be wearing it.)

However Morgan did not seem concerned that in flaunting dead animals in its front windows, the company is rubbing the issue in the face of the animal rights lobby.

Morgan insists that all the taxidermy featured is either antique or else sourced from roadkill, via either eBay, Sydney antique dealer Hunters & Collectors or the Macleay Museum at Sydney University. The only sacrifices made for the window, revealed Morgan, are two Hermès Click Clack ‘H’ bracelets that have been permanently glued to a pair of glass beakers by way of clear resin, as props in the scientist’s lab.

"They're not coming back" she noted.

But the display's humans don’t get off too lightly.

The scientist himself appears to be suffering from overexposure to his chemical cocktail and has wasted away to the fashion industry’s ideal body type – an actual skeleton. There is also another small skull in one inset window.

And adding moreover to the Silence of the Lambs/Buffalo Bill vibe, one window features the legs of a dismembered, kilt-clad female mannequin climbing a step ladder into an imaginary attic.

Frockwriter is bitterly disappointed that we missed Morgan’s last Gothic horror VM masterpiece.

With a ‘Murder at midnight’ theme, those windows, according to Morgan, told the story of a woman who – we kid you not - tried to blackmail, poison and then ultimately stab to death an old woman, to procure the funds to buy a Kelly bag.

Most of the violence was implied, says Morgan, but the mannequin did hold a pair of bloodied scissors in its hands in the final tableau.

Sales of handbags
have helped both Hermès and luxury juggernaut LVMH weather the economic downturn better than some of their competitors (even if the current climate has just prompted Hermès to cancel plans to open two new stores in China). Last week, Christian Lacroix filed for bankruptcy.

For 2008, Hermès reported sales of 1,764.6 million euros, up 10.2percent on 2007. Sales for the first quarter of 2009 grew 3.2percent to 428.4million euros - with first quarter sales in Asia outside Japan up 25.7percent up on the same period last year, to 99.4million euros.

Helping keep those cash registers ringing are the insatiable luxury appetites - and apparently bottomless wallets - of super-rich clients such as Victoria Beckham. Beckham reportedly owns a collection of 100 Hermès Birkin bags, worth an estimated £1.5million.

Prices in the Sydney store start at $40 for a soap and $130 for a fragrance. The brand’s iconic Kelly and Birkin handbags start at $9,000 and $12,000 respectively.

The Sydney store once sold a $200,000 diamond-encrusted Birkin reports Morgan.













all photos: kent vaughan

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