Another show season bites the dust. As per usual,
frockwriter has been following the
Australian model story as the season rolled from New York to London to Milan to
Paris (and interesting to see the mainstream Australian media also keeping close tabs
on model movements). So far we have counted 31 Australian faces, which is not
far off the all-time record of 38. And a dramatic increase on the 19 from the last season in September/October. Not bad, considering the freezing northern
winter and notably, New York’s Snow Storm Nemo – which Julia Nobis described to
us during New York Fashion Week as like “Flying snow
resembling a washing machine on spin cycle. Needless to say, I now have the flu!
Thanks Nemo, Jolly good times”.
“The 1st day of the Blizzard was exciting and almost beautiful, especially when you come from the middle of Australia, as I do! But it soon became uncomfortable. I suppose that I was better prepared, this being my fourth NYFW. I know my way around, which is a huge advantage, but the snow soon became messy and uncomfortable and unbelievably cold! I had to make a few changes to my wardrobe- ie. My Dr Martens instead of a more casual shoe. I also wear a water proof down coat over my casting clothes and of course an umbrella was necessary. I have had to take more taxis between castings and especially between shows than usual as this gives me time to think and thaw out....I did find it really funny watching all the fashion bloggers coming out of the blizzard into the shows. And peeling off all their oh-so-unglamorous waterproof layers and snow boots and changing into their super high-fashion outfits! Their style was definitely not compromised”.
Not only were a lot of Aussie models on the runways, they were frequently cast in the same top shows. Christopher Kane had five (Catherine McNeil, Gabby Dover, Rhianna Porter, Kaila Hart and Eva Downey). Saint Laurent had four (Julia Nobis, Catherine McNeil, Nicole Pollard and Olivia Thornton). Miu Miu had three (Catherine McNeil, Rhianna Porter and Cassi van den Dungen).
They also ranged
considerably in age and experience.
There were absolute newcomers such as Dover and April Tiplady, both just-signed to Australian agencies, but with zero modelling
experience down under, who took their first runway steps in top ticket international
shows such as Christopher Kane, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and Junya
Watanabe.
Then there were the relatively new girls such as
Nicole Pollard, who first appeared at New York Fashion Week 18 months ago and
then captured the attention of Christian Dior’s new creative director Raf
Simons last year, walking in all of his shows since July. This season, judging
by her show list, Pollard has graduated to major league status.
Not forgetting veterans such as Nobis, who was
everywhere once again this season, except for London, which she skipped. Nevertheless, she walked in 63 shows all up. With the season’s second biggest show tally of
40, Catherine McNeil was also everywhere. Nice to see also the return of Stephanie
Carta in London.
Then there were the Australia’s Next Top Model alumni. Three of them in fact: Cycle 6
winner Amanda Ware and Cycle 5’s Lola van Vorst and van den Dungen, that season’s runnerup. Ware pulled off an impressive 10 London shows while van Vorst
did a couple of low-profile shows in the same city. We would like to see her do
more. Van den Dungen, meanwhile, finally made her move on the international
circuit and caught the attention of influential casting directors Katie Grand
and Ashley Brokaw, scoring two of the season’s biggest shows - alongside the super exclusive Miu Miu, also Giles Deacon.
There were a few mysteries.
Although of course she had already notched up one
of the season’s biggest showlists by that stage, Nobis was nowhere to be seen
on Wednesday, a no-show at major closing day shows such as Louis Vuitton, Miu
Miu and Elie Saab, which seemed unusual for her.
Although definitely in New York at the beginning
of the season, Montana Cox did not do a single show. Ruby Jean Wilson did three
shows in New York – including Marc Jacobs, in whose Spring/Summer 2013 ad
campaign she stars – but then disappeared off the radar altogether.
There are many reasons why models don’t book
shows. Absurdly intense competition being at the top of the list, at least for
newcomers. Other reasons include other work commitments and immigration issues.
Codie Young’s passport was lost by immigration authorities between New York and
London, putting the kybosh on the rest of the season for her after a great start at New
York Fashion Week. The flu can also strike. And of course heading into the
season being just a couple of centimetres too big for designer samples can prove problematic. Likewise, being too small for the samples. Yes, it is possible to be too thin for the fashion industry.
Congratulations to all on a great season. And also to New Zealand’s model pack. There is clearly something in the water over there because the Kiwis keep coming up with girls who shoot straight to the top. From Emily Baker, who did 60 shows in her first season two years ago (but also sat this season out) to Anmari Botha (45 shows) and now Ashleigh Good, who was working at an Auckland cafe in November 2011 when she was scouted at a bus stop. Four months later she headed straight to a Givenchy exclusive at Paris Fashion Week. This season she booked a whopping 65 shows.
Here are the final show lists. Thanks for any additions that we might have missed. The New York shows are in black; London, blue; Milan, red; and Paris, grey.
Edun (opened)
Jason Wu
Rag & Bone
Helmut Lang
Alexander Wang
Lacoste
Jill Stuart
Victoria Beckham (closed)
Derek Lam
Tommy Hilfiger
Belstaff
Donna Karan
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Tory Burch
Vera Wang (closed)
Diesel Black Gold
Narciso Rodriguez
Michael Kors
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti (opened)
Reed Krakoff
Proenza Schouler
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
Gucci
No 21
Alberta Ferretti
Francesco Scognamiglio (closed)
Fendi (closed)
Prada
Etro (opened)
Versace
Iceberg
Bottega Veneta
Pucci (closed)
Jil Sander
Roberto Cavalli
Marni
Missoni
Salvatore Ferragamo
Gareth Pugh
Dries van Noten
Rue du Mail
Balenciaga
Rick Owens
Lanvin
Christian Dior
Vanessa Bruno
Maison Martin Margiela
Sonia Rykiel
Haider Ackermann
Viktor & Rolf (closed)
Acne Studios
Jean Paul Gaultier
Kenzo
Céline
Chloé
Givenchy
Sacai
Saint Laurent
Alexander McQueen
Hermès
Valentino
Chanel
= 63
CATHERINE MCNEIL
Jason Wu
Kenneth Cole (closed)
Prabal Gurung
Diane von Furstenberg
Zac Posen
Carolina Herrera
Ohne Titel
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Oscar de la Renta
Michael Kors
J Mendel
Marc Jacobs
Jonathan Saunders
Paul Smith (closed)
Christopher Kane
Giles
No 21
Francesco Scognamiglio
Prada
Ermanno Scervino
Marni
Dolce e Gabbana
Giorgio Armani (opened)
Anthony Vaccarello
Guy Laroche (opened)
Dries van Noten
Rue du Mail (opened)
Bamain
Barbara Bui (opened, closed)
Nina Ricci (opened, closed)
Lanvin
Christian Dior
Acne Studios
Jean Paul Gaultier
Givenchy
Saint Laurent
Hakaan
Hermès
Louis Vuitton
Elie Saab (opened)
= 40
NICOLE POLLARD
Alexander Wang
Y-3
Theyskens' Theory
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Rodarte
Gucci
Fendi
Fay
Etro
Roberto Cavalli
Dolce e Gabbana
Missoni (opened)
Gareth Pugh
Guy Laroche
Mugler
Balenciaga
Nina Ricci
Christian Dior
Sonia Rykiel
Acne Studios
Loewe
Kenzo
Givenchy
Saint Laurent
Hermès
Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu
= 27
JEMMA BAINES
Houghton
Chadwick Bell (closed)
St John
Jill Stuart
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Boy by Band of Outsiders
DKNY
Zac Posen
Delpozo (closed)
Thom Browne
Badgley Mischka
Jenny Packham (closed)
Oscar de la Renta
Marchesa
John Rocha
Blugirl (opened)
Antonio Marras
Mila Schön
Moschino
Jo No Fui
Nina Ricci
Kenzo
Chanel
Valentino
= 24
CODIE YOUNG
Creatures of the Wind
Tadashi Shoji
Houghton (opened)
Nicole Miller (closed)
Suno
Son Jung Wan (opened and closed)
Boy by Band of Outsiders
Zac Posen
ICB by Prabal Gurung
Hache
Oscar de la Renta
Sophie Theallet
Araks
Honor
= 14
CHRYSTAL COPLAND
Timo Weiland
Costello Tagliapietra
Parkmoonchoo
Ruffian
Libertine
Delpozo
Anna Sui
Jeremy Scott
L'Wren Scott
John Rocha
Thomas Tait
Antonio Marras
Angelo Marani
= 13
MELISSA "MJ" JOHANNSEN
Sachin & Babi
Timo Weiland
Rebecca Minkoff
Billy Reid
Son Jung Wan
Noon by Noor
Boy by Band of Outsiders
Mathieu Mirano
Jenny Packham
Bibhu Mohapatra
= 10
AMANDA WARE
Sass & bide
London College of Fashion
David Koma (opened)
L'Wren Scott
Emilia Wickstead (closed)
Marios Schwab
Pringle of Scotland
Osman
Maria Grachvogel (closed)
Roksanda Ilincic
= 10
AJAK DENG
Mara Hoffman
Lela Rose
Naeem Khan
Dennis Basso
Oscar de la Renta
Chado Ralph Rucci
Nanette Lepore
Jeremy Scott
DL1961 (closed)
= 9
JORDAN COHAYNEY
Candela
Charlotte Ronson
Catherine Maladrino
Tia Cibani
Project Runway
Adam Andrascik
Ostwald Helgason
= 7
KAILA HART
Christopher Kane
Guy Laroche
Aganovich
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ann Demeulemeester
Hermès
= 6
JESS GOLD
House of Holland
Christopher Raeburn
Zoe Jordan
Michael van der Ham
Fyodor Golan
= 5
STEPHANIE CARTA
International Woolmark Prize
Christopher Raeburn
Richard Nicoll
L'Wren Scott
Antonio Berardi
= 5
CASSI VAN DEN DUNGEN
International Woolmark Prize
Giles
Maiyet
Miu Miu
= 4
SHANINA SHAIK
SHANINA SHAIK
Jason Wu
Lela Rose
Tracy Reese
Nanette Lepore
= 4
EVA DOWNEY
Jonathan Saunders
Christopher Kane
Marni
= 3
RHIANNA PORTER
Christopher Kane (exclusive)
Chloé
Miu Miu
= 3
LOLA VAN VORST
Dans La Vie
Zeynep Tosun
Love Mayka
= 3
OLIVIA THORNTON
Hexa by Kuho
Véronique Branquinho
Saint Laurent
= 3
TOM BULL
Billy Reid
Ian Velardi
Gilded Age
Boast
Michael Bastian
= 3
RUBY JEAN WILSON
RUBY JEAN WILSON
Carolina Herrera
Anna Sui
Marc Jacobs
= 3
STIRLING CAIULO
Massimo Rebecchi
Isabella Zoboli (opened)
= 2
GABBY DOVER
Victoria, Victoria Beckham
Christopher Kane
= 2
BRIDGET MALCOLM
J Crew
= 1
SKYE STRACKE
Brandon Sun
= 1
VALENTINA SYKES
John Galliano
= 1
JESSICA HART
Louis Vuitton
= 1
JOEL MEACOCK
Massimo Rebecchi
= 1
APRIL TIPLADY
Junya Watanabe (closed)
= 1
LYDIA WILLEMINA COLLINS
Willow
= 1
KYE D'ARCY
London College of Fashion
= 1
photo gallery
all images: style.com
1/ julia nobis – valentino
2/ catherine mcneil – prada
3/ nicole pollard - gucci
4/ ruby jean wilson – marc jacobs
5/ olivia thornton – saint laurent
6/ cassi van den dungen – miu miu
7/ kaila hart – jean paul gaultier
8/ jemma baines - chanel
9/ rhianna porter – christopher kane
10/ jessica hart – louis vuitton
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