Showing posts with label AW09. Show all posts
Showing posts with label AW09. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Romancing the Woolmark


AWI via lumensphotography

Congrats to Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales, whose Romance Was Born label took out the 2009 L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Woolmark Designer Award last night. The duo's Autumn/Winter 2009 'Yeti Magic' collection led an impressive competition field that included Ant!podium, Gary Bigeni, Ellery, Konstantina Mittas and Therese Rawsthorne. Plunkett and Sales walked away with A$10,000 in cash, in addition to a trip to one of two key European textile trade shows, Pitti Filati or Premiere Vision. With Australian Fashion Week just six weeks away, 2009 is shaping up to be a big year for the five year-old Sydney brand. How are they going to top their 2008 AFW extravaganza? If all goes to plan, with an even bigger extravaganza, this time staged at the Sydney Theatre Company, thanks to a new hookup with STC co-director Cate Blanchett, who has become the brand's biggest fan - and who wears one of its dresses in the 2009 STC program. Romance Was Born is also due to design costumes for an upcoming STC production.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

AWOL from the runways, Alice Burdeu to resurface on Queen Mary 2


the cc via TFS

Wondering where the hell Alice Burdeu is? Well according to her Sydney agency Priscilla's, Burdeu is in town and about to make a special appearance at tomorrow’s Alex Perry show aboard Cunard cruise liner, the Queen Mary 2, which is due to glide into Sydney at 6am. That’s right, while 16 of Burdeu’s compatriots are walking up a storm on the FW0910 runways, Burdeu will be doing a Titanic, as it were, parading Perry’s AW09 collection in front of 100 of Sydney’s “A-listers”. That's after 2000 Cunard passengers have disembarked. Frockwriter attempted to find out precisely why Burdeu is not in Europe and if there is any chance she plans to return for the Milan and Paris legs of the season. The only information we could glean was that she has returned to see her family "after a busy 2008".

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Prada says jump - Sachi asks 'How high?'



From Rodarte to Prada to.............Sachi. While we're on the subject of killer heels, these are the culprits from el cheapo Australian shoe brand Sachi which prompted three models to crash and burn on the Auckland runway at last week's Annah Stretton show.

Given Sachi's current season Givenchy gladiator shoe boot knockoff, they were most likely modelled on a luxury brand.

Inside the media centre that afternoon, I did have to laugh when I overheard a publicist say Stretton was utterly mortified to learn that the model stacks dominated post-show dialogue.

Like, they were going to talk about the clothes?


annah stretton AW09/the dominion post

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Chow down with World


world AW09 muse tina chow/andy warhol

Although I missed the World show last week, I managed to play catchup with the World crew while in Auckland. And as if NZ's self-proclaimed "factory of ideas and experiments" wasn't camp enough, Bryanboy came along for the ride.

No limo for BB on this occasion however - he had to put up with the back of World co-founder Francis Hooper's delivery van. And look I did offer to swap, but Hooper was adamant.

"No - you're the girl" Hooper told me, even if many may well dispute this.

I don't recall hearing many complaints however.

Bryanboy's travelling companion was the dashing World menswear designer Benny Castles (below). Evidently Castles made quite an impression - BB told Kiwi blogger Isaac Hindin Miller that Castles was his "favourite" person he had met at the event.





First up was dinner on Sunday night at a cute Asian fusion resto concept called Chow down on the Viaduct Harbour (that's Hooper, centre ^).

Apparently there's more than one Chow in NZ and it was kind of apropos, given that World's There is no depression in New Zealand AW09 collection had in fact been inspired in large part by the late New York fashion icon Tina Chow.

After a four year hiatus from New Zealand Fashion Week, during which time the company focussed on its now eight-unit retail chain and showing at both the Tranoi menswear and womenswear trade shows in Paris, World opened the event last Tuesday.

By all accounts it was a spectacular opener, featuring the brand's trademark quirky take on English tailoring, electrically-hued menswear - and winding up with a showstopper of a Swarovski crystal-encrusted finale.

A significant component of every World show has always been the dedicated beauty concept created by long-time collaborator, the NZ-born, but now New York-based hair and makeup artist Brent Lawler - one of New Zealand's most successful style exports.




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world AW09 runway shots/michael ng


Yesterday BB and I trekked over to the World headquarters, which is located inside a deconsecrated church on Pitt Street.

Looking through the collection at close range, I thought a couple of pieces were particularly strong.

I loved the black puff-sleeved power suit with tulip skirt that had been teamed with a crystal-encrusted 'octopus' top - the classic World net T-shirt with ridiculously long sleeves which scrunch up your arms.

For the show, the look had been styled with crystal-studded ankle boots, a crystal-studded disc hat and some pretty fabulous insect-look crystal-studded sunglasses:



Of equal note, the Kelly green cashmere cocktail sheath with extravagant pussybow neckline and fur-covered skirt which has editorial written all over it.

Made for the New Zealand market using faux fur ("We'd have our locks glued if we used real fur here" noted Hooper), pending interest from Europe, notably the brand's nascent Russian client base, the faux fur garments may be destined for an eventual luxe makeover:



According to Castles, both NZ's Te Papa museum and Australia's National Gallery of Victoria have expressed interest in acquiring some of the crystal pieces.

The accessories - and the crystal suit - are fantastically camp. Elvis Presley might be long gone, but there's always Elton John.

Not to mention Bryanboy.














Friday, September 19, 2008

Joseph and his Karangahape dream set



Joseph Tenni made his international DJ debut last night at the Rising Sun bar which fronts onto Auckland's notoriously trashy Karangahape - aka 'K' - Road, and whose near wall-to-ceiling glass back end overlooks a bird's nest of freeway overpasses. There to cheer on the Chadwicks booker, Hintmag columnist and all-round model guru, was a gaggle of NZ Fashion Week ringins, many of whom had a go at some stage of the evening with either BB's Marc Jacobs BB bag - or stylist Ryan Lobo's Margiela goat's fur "tyre". And yes, there was model mania on the dance floor.
















Kate Sylvester: The grey lady



Kate Sylvester was a notable no-show this week in New Zealand. So frockwriter hiked across town to Sylvester's HQ for an exclusive preview of the designer's autumn/winter 2009 range. Inspired by black roses and black swans, there’s not a war medal in sight.



kate sylvester in her office

Sylvester told me that her point of departure was black flowers and notably, black roses.

One day, after spotting three black swans float past her home, which backs onto Waitemata Harbour, Sylvester added the graceful birds to her collection concept.


sylvester's PA monique saville in a kate sylvester tiara

Although Bjork was widely panned when she emerged on the 2001 Academy Awards red carpet in her now infamous Marjan Pejoski swan dress, Sylvester says that she has always loved the dress.



No, there’s no Bjork homage in this collection, just a white swan head graphic that is draped around the neckline of a T-shirt in the designer's signature grey marle – a fabric for which Sylvester confesses an “obsession”.



The spectacular evening piece in this range is a sculptured “rose bomb” cocktail dress in taffeta silk jacquard, in both a deep crushed berry colour and also signet grey (pictured above ^), which will retail for approximately NZ$1,500.



I loved the Mod-look cyclamen wool flannel car coat, the colourblocked pencil skirt, the iris silk jumpsuit – which Sylvester calls a dungaree – and the stirrup leggings with athletic stripes.



There’s also a balletic sub-plot, as seen in a sweet little black tutu with multicoloured tulle petticoats and a blush mohair waffle knit cardigan with exposed metal zips.



Sylvester is preparing to open a Sydney store – and says that in spite of the war medal fiasco at May’s Australian Fashion Week, she’ll be back on the Sydney runway in May 2009.

Of the medal brouhaha, she noted:

“I’ve got great uncles who died in the war, and on Anzac Day while I was styling outfits with medals on them, Wayne (Conway, her husband and business partner) was back in New Zealand, he took the boys to the Anzac dawn service. We acknolwedge Anzac Day and the importance of it. I have such huge admiration for the tradition of New Zealand and Australian soldiers and their courage and bravery. I was mortified to have caused offence”.











images: studio shots/kate sylvester; still-lifes and portraits/frockwriter

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