LMFF, Refinery 29 downunder and Sonny Vandevelde comes of Age

It's a busy week next week. On Sunday frockwriter will be down in Melbourne for the opening of the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. On Wednesday 17th, we will have the honour of moderating the Sydney presentation by Refinery 29 co-founders, the New York-based Philippe Von Borries and Piera Gelardi. Staged at the Museum of Sydney and organised by Melbourne digital outfit Portable, it’s one of three Australian talks the duo will deliver over the next seven days, providing an insight into what went into building one of the web’s hottest indie fashion sites. Tonight they will be in Brisbane and on the 18th, Melbourne. Then on Friday 19th frockwriter will be back down in Melbourne, where we will also have the honour of opening the first Australian exhibition of our buddy, Belgralian backstage snapper Sonny Vandevelde at Mars Gallery.

The exhibition's soft opening is this Saturday and it runs until March 28th, so check it out if you are in town.

Now a regular contributor to the online entity of The New York Times' fashion magazine T (among many other publications), just last week Sonny was thrilled to find several of his shots being used on the site's homepage to flag its Fall/Winter 2010/2011 coverage.

Sonny already knows he is the focus of an upcoming feature in the Melbourne broadsheet The Age, penned by fashion editor Jan Breen Burns - which will in fact be the first mainstream Australian media profile of his work.

What he doesn’t yet know is that he is in fact tomorrw's cover story of the paper's A2 arts supplement. Above is a sneak peek at the A2 cover which features one of his shots. Buy the paper to read how this Sydney surfie became one of the best backstage photographers in the world. We'll update with a link once the story goes online (and voilà).

Elle Macpherson closes Louis Vuitton

louis vuitton FW1011/getty via daylife


Well we can add Elle Macpherson to the list of Australian models walking in Fall/Winter 2010/2011. Returning to the runway after what frockwriter estimates could be a 20 year hiatus (the last time we recall seeing Macpherson on a catwalk was the Bicentennial Wool Collection in Sydney in 1988), she closed Louis Vuitton's 1950s-nosed collection yesterday in Paris. Although not technically the last show of the season - that was Miu Miu last night - it was a fascinating climax to a season marked by its interesting show casting. Much has been made of the "curvier" models on show alongside the stock standard teenage skeletors, even though the Victoria's Secret Angels who appeared at Prada and Balenciaga are still whippet thin. But the choice of 46 year-old Macpherson, after Calvin Klein cast fortysomethings Kristen McMenamy and Stella Tennant, alongside 33 year-old Kirsty Hume in New York, with McMenamy also showing up at Viktor & Rolf last weekend, seems more a victory for the older woman, than her curvier cousin.

From Churchill to Cassi-Gate, insulting the French is "nothing new" - The Times of London

After last week's post about Cassi van den Dungen's ill-fated Paris Fashion Week trip, where hasn't the story appeared? First The Sunday Telegraph, then The Melbourne Herald Sun, The Brisbane Courier Mail and Ninemsn.com.au. Yesterday, Seven Network's Morning Show devoted an entire panel discussion to the subject, with The Herald Sun's Luke Dennehy - who apparently "broke the story" - crossing live from Melbourne to anchors Kylie Gillies and Larry Emdur and fashion commentator Melissa Hoyer, to discuss van den Dungen's Facebook rant against "frog eaters" and "snail slurpers" - as if it was an international incident (see below). Even the UK Telegraph picked it up.

Alexander McQueen's final collection saluted in camera by "all who loved him"

WWD twitter


Frockwriter predicted that an Alexander McQueen show would go on in Paris on March 9th. It concluded several hours ago. Perhaps not on the original scale planned by McQueen prior to his death on February 11th, but in its place, a sobre, dignified presentation of just 15 showpieces in a gilded salon, according to WWD, which uploaded one shot to Twitter. At time of writing it had been viewed over 3,000 times. Although you can see photographers in the background, it is unclear if they were working for the house. Reportedly, the latter is due to supply press images, with all other photographers banned. Update: Here are 11 of the (in fact)16 looks. Which is not dissimilar to the way the Paris fashion show system used to work way back in the mid 20th century. A second presentation will, by all accounts, take place tomorrow, the final day of the FW1011 season, which commenced with the terrible news of McQueen's suicide. In closing, frockwriter would just like to share the following comment which was left on our original post yesterday. It’s anonymous, so obviously we have no idea about the identity of its author. But we would like to believe that it was genuinely one of McQueen's colleagues:

“I have worked with Alexander McQueen for 10 years. Out of respect for the man, the person, and all of those who are still trying to come to terms with Lee's untimely demise, the brand will not be putting on a blow out catwalk show, but will indeed present the collection (which was indeed already cut and finished) in a very intimate setting as it is sure to be emotional for all who loved him. The brand will go on, not in Gucci's bid to cash in, but as all of us who had the joy and pleasure of working with Lee remain committed to building our brand, and carrying on his legacy.”

Hollywood's risk takers

reuters via daylife

Just a couple of personal favourites from last night's Oscars. Most of which, frockwriter notes, are already turning up on worst-dressed lists. In a sea of safe, so-so goddess gowns and meringues, however, we applaud their bravura: Charlize Theron, Zoe Saldana and Sarah Jessica Parker in haute couture, respectively Christian Dior, Givenchy and Chanel. Then there was Nicole Richie's quicksilver boho de luxe gown by Lebanese American designer Reem Acra. And the statuesque Kathryn Bigelow, who looked striking in her gunmetal Yves Saint Laurent sheath. Although the latter design was far more conservative than that of Theron and co, when you are the first woman in 82 years to be awarded a Best Director Oscar, who needs haute couture?







all images: daylife

sarah jessica parker/getty
nicole richie/getty
zoe saldana/AP
charlize theron/reuters

Viktor & Rolf's Freaky Saturday

Alexander McQueen might be gone, but we still have a a couple of showmen/women left, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren at the top of the list. The Dutch duo is renowned for the theatricality of its shows (which frequently upstage the actual collections). Some experiments have gone wrong – a case in point the Fall Winter 2007/2008 show from three years ago, in which models were forced to walk the runway in bizarre metal light rig harnesses. Noone ate the catwalk and just as well, as they could have seriously injured themselves. The duo was subsequently widely accused of misogyny (a common criticism of McQueen). Here is the post I did from that show from Paris for smh.com.au. No such criticism of Saturday’s show, which is being billed as one of the best of the season, if not the best.

The collection, called ‘Glamour Factory’, was set against a monchromatic backdrop painted with graphics of industrial cogs.

The predominantly black and grey collection would most likely have passed largely unnoticed had it not been for the clever staging, which starred 43 year-old American model Kristen McMenamy in her second runway outing this season, after Calvin Klein's show in New York three weeks ago.

McMenamy wore 23 looks. All at once.

Piled, Russian doll-like, under layers of coats and dresses, she walked to a rotating disc in the middle of the runway and stood there like a store mannequin, while the designers peeled off the layers right down to a nude-coloured corset.

As the duo undressed McMenamy, they dressed each of the remainder of the model cast – every last one of them, as per usual, young enough to be McMenamy's daughter - in her discarded clothes. Think Jamie Lee Curtis and Lindsay Lohan in Freaky Friday, just swapping sporty fur-lined anoraks, tweed boyfriend jackets and bodysuits, satin smoking jackets and LBDs, instead of minds.

By all accounts, McMenamy was re-dressed in the garments as the models returned from their turns on the runway.

The climax was delivered by way of a giant panniered skirt which was inverted and transformed on McMenamy via a drawstring, to a cape with a behemoth Elizabethan collar.

You had to be there obviously. But for everyone who wasn’t, the above video gives a taste. Here is the entire collection in photos.

Needless to say, no backstage dressers were required.

Lauren Brown bags Balenciaga

nowfashion.com

Well Priscillas is having a great season. Frockwriter mentioned that the Sydney agency had three hot newcomers heading to the FW1011 show season. In addition to Christina Carey - who walked in the Marc Jacobs show in New York. And now, after Julia Nobis landed a Calvin Klein exclusive in New York, comes word (confirmed by Priscillas) that Lauren Brown has just walked in another equally prestigious show: Balenciaga. Fantastic get for Brown and Priscillas, which is presumably having a terrific day, following the news that a model Priscillas and its New York affiliate Elite unsuccessfully attempted to sign after Australia's Next Top Model Cycle 5 - Cassi van den Dungen - has just flown back to Oz after missing out on one of Paris Fashion Week's most high profile shows. With Brown apparently having already appeared at last week's Emporio Armani show in Milan, it does not appear to have been a season exclusive. Priscillas reports that Brown has been confirmed for only one other Paris show, as the arrangement with that show and Balenciaga was "semi exclusive" (ie in Paris). It's not the first time a Priscillas model has walked Balenciaga. Stephanie Carta made several appearances. But it's interesting that the agency didn't tip any media outlets in this leadup - as it did with Nobis in Milan, at least according to Pedestrian.tv, which ran a story about Nobis' future coup. Fortunately for Nobis, it didn't kill the option.

Balenciaga packs it in for Fall

nowfashion.com

Reportedly inspired by packing materials and the work of American photographer Irving Penn and French video artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, here are the first shots of Balenciaga’s Fall Winter 2010/2011 collection which just walked the runway in Paris. Both wildly colourful and intellectual - with Australia’s Miranda Kerr walking for the second consecutive season, as tipped by frockwriter, alongside Australian newcomer Lauren Brown - the collection was a futuristic mélange of embellished knit tunic dresses; graphic, colourblocked sweaters over lace-look bellbottom clamdiggers with turnups; sculpted charcoal suiting with origami panelling; and an intriguing series of what appeared to be skinny-legged, ski bib n'brace-look overalls in black and gunmetal grey. The zippered bodices of the latter peeled down to create trapeze-shaped, trompe l'oeil 'tops' out of the lining, which was emblazoned with newspaper graphics. The late, great Alexander McQueen once said he dressed women in "armour". Nicolas Ghesquière just bubble-wrapped them.













nowfashion.com

Cassi van den Dungen takes one step back from her model dream

IMG

Are you ready for the next installment of the Cassi van den Dungen rollercoaster? Sadly this one ends with her 33,000 feet somewhere above Central Asia on a plane en route to Australia. Yes as frockwriter types, van den Dungen is winging her way back downunder, having failed to book a single show at Paris Fashion Week. No interest? Nothing could be further from the truth. Frockwriter can reveal that she was heading to Paris Fashion Week on option for an exclusive. Indeed a tremendously prestigious Paris Fashion Week exclusive which, if secured, would have undoubtedly launched her international career. She didn't get it. Even after three meetings with the design house and casting director. Now anyone who knows anything about the modelling business knows that this could have happened to any girl. There is however a little more to this back story, so buckle up.

Olivier Zahm christened "Smegmacula" by Vanity Fair

purple diary

Long time no Olivier Zahm update. Zahm, the editor of French T&A art magazine PURPLE FASHION magazine has been a regular on this blog, notorious not only for his resemblance to the late Australian lothario Michael Hutchence, but his propensity to post nude photos of himself and endless raunchy - some have suggested exploitative - images of women, interspersed with pics of his primary school age daughter Asia. Well someone has just accorded Zahm an extremely colourful moniker, but it’s not an anonymous hater on an under-the-radar web forum. Contributing editor of Vanity Fair, George Wayne has worked for the high profile US magazine for almost twenty years as, according to his bio notes, "the magazine’s intrepid Q&A correspondent and distinguished cultural arbiter, conducting his trademark, candid interviews with scores of subjects, from actors to politicians, to fellow journalists”. Here is what Wayne had to say about Zahm on the VF Daily blog on the Vanity Fair website on Thursday. Talk about candid:

“There is this smelly-looking Frenchman who swanned onto our social scene a few seasons ago who clearly fancies himself as the cat’s pajamas. He created and currently edits one of those edgy fashion magazines with an astute following. “Smegmacula,” as the G-Spot will refer to him henceforth (think “Smegma” meets “Dracula”), considers himself the hipster-louche playmaker of the Gotham demimonde. When G.W. spots the ubiquitous night crawler out and about, orchestrating a moment inside the scene’s chicest bon-chic-bon genre, one cannot help but wax poetic: “Oh, there’s Smegmacula. Wow—that purple crown of his must be ripe and florid right about now.”

purple diary

Wayne also recently distinguished himself by swallowing a Swarovski crystal during an episode of Kell on Earth, the new reality series of New York fashion publicist Kelly Cutrone.

Perhaps he’s still suffering the aftereffects.

Or perhaps Vanity Fair parent Condé Nast is simply feeling the indie heat in the midst of the media bloodbath.