Backstage at DVF

diane von furstenberg backstage in sydney 24/10/12

So the Diane von Furstenberg show rolled into town last week. One runway show, one Business Chicks lunch and one Hayman Island penthouse launch down, where is von Furstenberg now? Cooling her heels, she told me backstage on Wednesday night, at a mate’s Kangaroo Valley farm in the NSW Southern Highlands. A pretty spot, we assured her (here’s a Highlands wrap we did a couple of years ago). “I have my book to finish you know” she noted, arousing our curiosity as to precisely how long she is planning to hang around. With Hurricane ‘Frankenstorm’ Sandy currently bearing down on the US east coast and thousands of flights cancelled, perhaps a little longer than originally planned.

Bath party: Marcs' five faces of Spring/Summer 2011/2012

Australian sportswear brand Marcs has been producing some cool advertising campaigns of late. Nabbing new Australian modelling superstar Julia Nobis was a good start of course. Nobis co-starred in the Spring/Summer 2010/2011 and Autumn/Winter 2011 campaigns with Broed Dilleward and Nick Hinman, respectively. Here is a first look at the SS1112 campaign, for which Marcs' creative director Rachel Allen has upped the ante with not two but five rising Australian stars: Chic's Rachel Rutt and Nicole Pollard, Viviens' Rosie Tupper, Priscillas' Andy Smith and EMG Models' Jack Vanderhart (who made his international debut at New York Fashion Week in February, with a Calvin Klein exclusive). Shot by Steven Chee, the campaign also showcases one of Australia's most beautiful sea baths: the heritage-listed Wylies Baths in Sydney's Coogee.

Christopher Esber's tuxedo junction

Although inexplicably missing from many RAFW writeups, Christopher Esber's show was one of the best presentations of 2011. Esber graduated in the same TAFE NSW Fashion Design Studio class as Dion Lee and clearly, 2007 was one of the school's strongest years, because he demonstrates as much potential as his already far better-known former classmate. The luxury sportswear collection, which was inspired by the seemingly disparate notions of tuxedo dressing and beach culture, incorporated several innovative fabrics that had been created by Esber. An intricate, two-way pleated synthetic taffeta was used in a charming series of zippered, short-sleeved blouses and pencil skirts in soft powder blue and peach  - and a gossamer-like fabric that had been woven with actual fishing wire, found its way into several delicate, tea-stained slip dresses. Although the third last show on the schedule, it was the final gig for most of the week's top models, including Rachel Rutt and Myf Shepherd, who could barely contain their relief that the week was over and hammed it up backstage for the show's duration.        

Alex Perry's Cuban revolution - LMFF 2011

Could Alex Perry have started something with his Spring/Summer 2011/2012 collection unveiling last night at the L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival? A consumer event showcasing in-season collections to consumers, LMFF is popular with designers because its runways present what is in store right now - with some retailers reporting 30-50percent spikes in business during the event. But a wholesale collection that is traditionally shown to buyers and press six months ahead of the season? That's usually the territory of Australian Fashion Week. In reality, Perry showed 'first summer' last night - that is, the first half of next summer's offerings. He still plans to show at RAFW in May. Perry will show 'second summer' at that event - and according to his wingman, Josh Flinn, the second collection will be a lot more elaborate. With the fashion cycle continuing to accelerate, retailers offering far more frequent product drops than ever before and the rise and rise of Resort and Pre-Fall collections internationally, perhaps it makes sense for designers to gain additional exposure via consumer events such as this, at the same time providing some real news value for the fashion media. 

Once were couturiers - Australian fashion icons reband to launch LMFF 2011

So there I was, navigating the fluorescent yellow bowels of the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, when I bumped into an Australian fashion icon waving a steam wand. Jenny Kee, co-founder of the 1970s label and boutique Flamingo Park, was trying to get the creases out of a multicoloured scarf headdress that was due to be showcased in Fashion Full Stop, last night's opening show of the L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival (which frockwriter is attending as a guest of the organisers and Tourism Victoria). Kee was resplendent in three examples of her own handiwork: a 1983 suit from Karl Lagerfeld's debut collection for Chanel, which incorporated Kee's black opal print, some vintage Flamingo Park and one of the scarves from her brand new online boutique. "It's all about online now" noted Kee, when I asked why she and former sidekick Linda Jackson don't relaunch Flamingo Park. "You need lots of money" explained Jackson backstage a few minutes later - reiterating sentiments she expressed at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week back in 2008, after Therese Rawsthorne showed a collection using Jackson's waratah print. They might not (yet) have put the band back together, but fantastic to see Kee and Jackson together again making fashion magic last night, with more than a little help from the new generation of Australian fashion talents, in one rollercoaster retrospective that spanned fifty years.

Rachel Rutt, the face of summer

Who's a popular girl then? One of frockwriter’s favourite models, Sydneysider Rachel Rutt, finally looks to be getting some recognition. In May, we mentioned that Rutt had just scored her second international magazine cover – Dazed & Confused Japan, following one of 12 multicovers of the French Revue de modes in October 2009 – but had yet to make page one of any local titles. Well she more than makes up for it this month by scoring the covers of the summer editions of Australia’s Yen (below) and New Zealand’s No magazine (above), which launched today in NZ. Update 2/12: Although she is not on the actual cover of the December edition of The Australian's luxury magazine Wish, which is out tomorrow, Rutt nevertheless features in its Christmas fashion cover story. Here is a behind-the-scenes video:  

Rachel Rutt scores her second international cover - so why can't she get a gig downunder?

dazed & confused japan via chic management

In the deluge of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week coverage, frockwriter somehow managed to miss this cover. So congrats are due to one of this blog's faves, Sydney model Rachel Rutt, who scored this month's cover of the Japanese edition of Dazed & Confused. And while sure, it's not as visible as the cover of the UK parent edition (which Rutt's better-established Chic stablemate Abbey Lee Kershaw has cracked twice), it is nevertheless a fantastic get. It represents, moreover, her second international cover - after scoring one of 12 multicovers of the autumn/winter 09/10 edition of French Revue de Modesmade the cover of Dazed & Confused Japan last October, alongside big names including Coco Rocha, Ali Stephens, Karmen Pedaru, Dree Hemingway, Constance Jablonski and Maryna Linchuk. Coincidentally, in February, another Chic-ette, Rutt's great mate Myf Shepherd, scored the cover of Dazed & Confused Japan. So you could say that "MUTT" has this mag covered. 

The models of RAFW

Frockwriter profiled some of the designers and a few of the bloggers of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, but what about the models? Sadly we ran out of time in the leadup and our planned RAFW newbies post remained unfinished in story drafts. But we did photograph quite a few models as we went along, in our Twitter/Posterous feed and show photo galleries (which have also, conveniently, been archived on Facebook – thanks Posterous). But we also wanted to check with each of the major Sydney agencies to see which of their models were the busiest at the event. Some of their nominated newbies were included. Of course there were many, many other models who worked during the week and it’s not necessarily about who pulled the most shows. There was in fact an exceptionally strong cross-section of Australian model experience on RAFW's runways this season. As distinct from runway diversity, which Australian designers - like their New Zealand counterparts - have yet to fully embrace, with Asian and black models still fighting hard for visibility above the bevy of über-popular blondes and Europeans. "It's like they'll only use a black girl if there's a tribal theme to the collection" noted one observer.

Myf Shepherd and Rachel Rutt are MUTT

myf shepherd via vogue.com.au

On Monday, frockwriter told you about a potentially explosive new Australian fashion blog called Heyweird: a series of interviews with anonymous fashion and creative insiders, conducted by two anonymous models. “High profile” models, promised Lorena Mercado, who has recruited the duo - whose joint byline is "MUTT" – to file behind-the-scenes dispatches for the new RAFW section of her Australian INFront site. Frockwriter had a chat to one of the models this afternoon. With her consent, we can now reveal both names. You may have heard of them. Myf Shepherd and Rachel Rutt. That’s right, the breakout runway stars of respectively, RAFW’s SS0809 and SS0910 seasons, with Shepherd instantly catapulted by the 2008 event into the beginnings of a stellar international career.

Rutt hit the ground running in the SS10 season in New York in September, but is currently hampered by visa issues.

Rutt will be walking next week’s runways. However, she reports that Shepherd will not be appearing in any shows, contrary to previous speculation.

Currently studying at Sydney’s College of Fine Arts, Shepherd will nevertheless be working closely with Rutt next week on the Australian INFront project.

Their interviewees will, however, most definitely remain anonymous says Rutt.

Rutt (below), who walked in today’s Carla Zampatti show, declined to do an interview, noting that the duo wants the blog to speak for itself.

Stay tuned for some interesting developments - especially if they start pumping their international insider network.

The Rutt pack

rachel rutt/TFS street style NYFW

Sadly frockwriter has been otherwise occupied for the duration of New York Fashion Week, so this blog has been incredibly quiet. Australian models, on the other hand, have been busy, with at least 12 local names walking in shows. Anyone we have missed, feel free to add in. According to Chadwicks Jessica Hart and Louise van der Vorst were also on deck, but so far the photos have yet to emerge. Priscillas says that Lauren Brown did eight shows, but we have only managed to spot her in two. A few models of note. After skipping last season altogether due to an ankle injury, Abbey Lee Kershaw powered back last week booking an impressive 20 shows, including some of the week’s biggest names. As expected, Rachel Rutt made an impressive RTW debut, also clocking 20 shows.

Myer backstage at RSFF

sonny vandevelde

Herewith an exclusive preview of Sonny Vandevelde's backstage portfolio from Myer's SS0910 show last night in Sydney, in which we saw a lot of colour, a lot of dresses, "statement shoulders", as Myer face Jennifer Hawkins referred to the silhouette in our video chat - even if 'the Balenciaga shoulder' is what we called it at RAFW four months ago - and rather a lot of eveningwear. The show commenced with an eveningwear medley from various designers and closed with Aurelio Costarella, the Perth eveningwear specialist who has spent the past few years showing at New York Fashion Week. And who told frockwriter last night that, GFC notwithstanding, there are still plenty of Australian women who think of nothing of spending $2500 on a special dress. Costarella also observed that showing in New York is "less stressful" than showing in Sydney.

Toni Maticevski's new Maticevski Sweethearts line also enjoyed an outing. That's Maticevksi's new bridesmaid-skewed line of dresses that is fully customizable up to a size 24. Did any plus size models get a guernsey in that section? Not a chance. After making such a song and dance about including plus size models in Myer's suburban shows, it seemed like a lost opportunity at last night's high-profile launch event.

The cast included Australian haute couture queen Alexandra Agoston, fresh from the Paris couture shows, ANTM Cycle 5 winner Tahnee Atkinson, Rachel Rutt, Simone Kerr, runway veteran Tanya G and Tallulah Morton.

For more pics from the show head to Sonny Photos.










all photos: sonny vandevelde

Jayson Brunsdon backstage at RSFF

They had ballerina hair and ballerina-inspired footwear. Herewith a backstage portfolio from Kent Vaughan of last night's Jayson Brunsdon Spring/Summer 0910 show, which opened the 2009 Rosemount Sydney Fashion Festival - a consumer event that presents in-season collections. A glamorous, softly-toned collection of silk shirtwaisters, cocktail shorts, embellished halter tops and draped goddess gowns, it was originally inspired by the "classic Australian woman", as epitomised by Brunsdon's mother Dorothy and unveiled at RAFW in May. Frockwriter was busy snapping backstage shots in real-time to upload to Twitter and shooting a live-stream video (below) - to the hilarious commands of "Rock and roll!" from one backstage snapper as the girls exited the runway to head backstage. The show was opened and closed by RSFF face Elyse Taylor, with plenty of other local highprofilers, including Rachel Rutt, Vanessa Milde, Simone Kerr and NZ's Georgia Fowler.
























all photos: kent vaughan

Rachel Rutt, Sonny Vandevelde gear up for New York Fashion Week

rachel rutt by sonny vandevelde


So Rachel Rutt was back in town for last week’s David Jones show. While in town, she shot a lookbook for Wish. Click here to see more out-takes on photographer Sonny Vandevelde’s blog. Frockwriter mentioned that after her stellar Australian Fashion Week in May, Rutt headed to New York for the cruise season, during which she shot lookbooks for Phillip Lim and Doo.Ri and featured on big buzz model industry websites models.com and COACD. Add to this several as yet unseen new jobs: a lookbook for eveningwear brand Marchesa, a shoot with Scott ‘The Sartorialist’ Schuman for Vogue Italia, presentations for Mulberry and Giles Deacon in London and a 14-page editorial shot in London by Andrew Hobbs for NZ's PILOT magazine. Rutt is now gearing up for the SS10 shows, which kick off in New York on September 9. As is Vandevelde who, in addition to covering the season, will unveil the first of two upcoming retrospectives showcasing a decade of his backstage photography at New York's Tribeca Grand Hotel from September 10-30. The second is due to take place during the 2010 Melbourne Fashion Festival.

David Jones Spring/Summer 2009/2010

OK folks, I'm heading down to Fox Studios to cover David Jones Spring/Summer 2009/2010 season launch show. The plan is to cover live on the spot. Think back to Rosemount Australian Fashion Week and the temporary rolling news format that the blog took that week. For those of you who don't already use Twitter, I have opened up a Twitter widget to the right-hand side so that you can follow the tweets and TwitPics. Just click on the links to see the shots. Pending work commitments, I will try to come back to the blog a little later for a more considered wrap.

So far have been unable to secure backstage access, which is a shame but if David Jones doesn’t want one of the world’s best backstage photographers at its show – Sonny Vandevelde, who is welcomed backstage at the shows of most of the international luxury brands stocked by DJs – then what chance does little old frockwriter have? Sonny is invited but has to sit in the audience.

This time last year we did run some great backstage stuff of the girls taken by Kent Vaughan (Mr Frockwriter FYI), a makeup artist who was working at that show for Estee Lauder but who has since moved over to Shu Uemura. Conveniently perhaps Shu Uemura has since picked up the David Jones show reins from Lauder. At the February show however - to which frockwriter was not invited - backstage security searched bags of all personnel entering the premises looking for cameras, so security has evidently been stepped up.

Plenty of people who work on shows take photos for their own records, including the models themselves. Frockwriter wonders if DJs plans to also confiscate mobile phones.

Leaving to one side those photographers whose sole interest in taking shots of half-naked models getting dressed, backstage photography generates considerable positive coverage and buzz about fashion shows.

Frockwriter also asked for a list of the complete model cast. Apart from Miranda Kerr, Jennifer Hawkins and one or two others, most of the models at these store parades remain nameless.

Chic Management has 17 models in the show, from a cast of what DJs informs us is a cast of 37.

Beyond Kerr, here are the Chic Management names were were allowed to report:

Rachel Rutt
Annabel Maitland
Anna J
Camille Yi
Charlotte Lohmann

As for the SS0910 trends backed by DJs for this season, going from the DJs release, we can expect to see harem pants, safari jackets and lightweight trenches, boyfriend jackets, animal prints, stripes, embellishment and lots and lots of colour.

Colour was also the brief for the makeup team.

Where the Bisonte roam

No sign of Rachel Rutt at last week's haute couture shows in Paris. But frockwriter hears the upwardly-mobile Chic-ette is biding her time until the Spring/Summer 2010 season, which is just around the corner. Meanwhile, Rutt’s latest Australian work is about to hit: the very first advertising campaign for Australian luxury leathergoods brand Bisonte, which has just added a Chatswood store to its three store lineup in Sydney and Melbourne (with a fifth store, in Sydney's CBD, to open early 2010). The images will go into all Bisonte stores on August 1st and also a leather-bound look book. Shot by Chris Ferguson, the campaign (see below) also features Ruby Grose, Max Panichetti, Adrian Africa (Priscillas), Avril Alexander, Frankie Elliss-Galati (Viviens) and Chadwicks’ Georgie Wass – who we caught up with on live-streamed video at RAFW in May.
















all images: bisonte