McQueen jilted by Australian lover, not his first suicide attempt – The Daily Telegraph

the fashionisto

Sydney’s Daily Telegraph newspaper has added some interesting details to the intrigue surrounding the suicide of top British designer Alexander McQueen, the biggest fashion story since the murder of Gianni Versace in 1998. Citing an interview with McQueen conducted by Irish journalist Godfrey Deeny for the April edition of Australian Harpers Bazaar, the paper claims that McQueen had been recently (although it doesn't clarify how recently) jilted by an Australian lover, whose name he had tattoed on his arm. It also includes claims from an unnamed friend of the designer - as originally reported in The Daily Mail - that McQueen’s arms were covered with lacerations following previous suicide attempts and that, against the backdrop of his mother’s death and funeral, which was due to take place yesterday, he could not cope with the pressures of completing his next collection. One friend is quoted as saying, “His Paris show is coming up and his staff have been nagging him all week to get up and start working. But he wouldn't get out of bed, he just couldn't get up. He hasn't even been to any of his fittings for the show. He was so upset about his mother. It was her funeral and he couldn't face it." Hasn't Gucci Group heard of bereavement leave?

Cassi heads to Paris Fashion Week

carlotta moye/work agency

Are you ready for the next instalment of the Cassi van den Dungen rollercoaster? Paris. Yep. Frockwriter hinted that there was potentially some exciting news surrounding a brand new Australian face at the FW1011 shows and this is it (well, part of...). After being crowned runnerup in Australia's Next Top Model Cycle 5, snubbing contracts with Priscillas and Elite New York, giving up modelling, signing with Tanya Powell, then Work Agency, getting slagged off by ANTM hosts Charlotte Dawson and Alex Perry on Facebook, then talked up by influential model scouting site The Ones 2 Watch, van den Dungen is packing her bags for her first ever trip to the City of Light. She has been placed with IMG's Paris Development board and will be chaperoned by Work Agency booker Sash Andreevski. So much for not wanting to work outside Australia. According to Work Agency director Helena Vitolins, "She's focussed, she's definitely ready, her head's in a really great space. She wants it all."

IMG source on Gemma Ward: "Her moment's over. She's not coming back"

gilles-marie zimmermann

What with the shocking news of Alexander McQueen's suicide falling on the first day of the Fall/Winter 2010/2011 show season in New York, it's a little hard to navigate around fashion news at the moment. Easy to miss in the deluge: A Supermodel Betrayed, a massive feature on Gemma Ward that has just gone up on The New York Post. Two of my earlier stories (at The Sydney Morning Herald and news.com.au) are referenced in it. It contains quite a few revelations, most of them from anonymous sources, which is pretty typical of the fashion business. I mean, let's not let the truth get in the way of commercial interests. Of particular note:

An IMG insider:

"Her moment's over. She's not coming back."

The reaction of one fashion editor after spotting Ward in Chanel's Spring/Summer 2008 show, in the bikini:

"I saw her on the [Chanel] runway… I almost didn't recognize her... [she looked] big, almost bloated."

Olga Liriano, a New York City casting director and model booker, who does go on the record:

"We have a collective body dysmorphia, where we don't even know what normal is anymore, where a size 6 or 8 is overweight for a model.....there was no compassion [for Ward]".

In November 2009 IMG reportedly turned down a photo-shoot offer for Ward from Harper's Bazaar US:

"stipulating that if she were to return to its pages, it would be on the condition that she be back in modeling shape".

According to one highranking fashion mag source:

"Once these pictures are out of her being big, her brand is diminished, at least as far as her agency and the mainstream fashion world goes. Gemma's torn. In the last few years [her weight gain] was very much her f--k you to the industry. She's rebelling by putting on 30 or 40 pounds, so now going back isn't a straightforward option."

Fascinating. We have yet to check this with Harpers Bazaar - who probably also won't talk due to commercial interests - but if correct, it means that a major magazine wanted to book Ward but IMG refused unless she lost weight. Because she suddenly represents an embarrassing plus size model?

If clients are trying to book Ward, how does that equate to her moment being "over"? And if there is no interest in her, why has a mass market newspaper just published a major story on her?

Sources tell this blog that elsewhere in IMG, other parties have talked of Ward definitely making a comeback.

Frockwriter's take on this is that the industry should be extremely nervous.

Ward is sitting on a goldmine of information about the machinations at its top levels.

She's also a Scorpio. And they're known for the stings in their tails.

Vale Alexander McQueen

kin ho

A tremendous loss to the fashion world, Alexander McQueen has committed suicide at the age of 40. The British designer was found dead this morning in London, reportedly by hanging. The news follows just nine days after the death of McQueen’s mother Joyce. Three months after the suicide, also by hanging, of South Korean model Daul Kim, a favourite of McQueen. And three years after the suicide of close friend, British stylist Isabella Blow, who launched McQueen’s career in 1992, after purchasing his entire graduation collection from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.

Born on the 17th March 1969 in London’s East End, the son of a taxi driver and a social science teacher, McQueen made clothing for his sisters at an early age, before leaving school at 16 to pursue an apprenticeship on the hallowed tailoring ground of London’s Savile Row, where he worked for Anderson & Sheppard and later, Gieves & Hawkes. While at the latter, McQueen famously penned the words "I am a cunt” in biro into the lining of a suit destined for Prince Charles. In 2003 he nevertheless accepted a CBE, “for my parents” he told SHOWstudio.

McQueen also worked briefly for the London costume supplier Angels & Bermans, where he worked on productions such as Les Mis, in addition to fashion houses Koji Tatsuno and Romeo Gigli. In 1990 he was offered a highly coveted place in Saint Martins’ MA design course - after initially being knocked back for a patternmaker tutor's job for which he had applied at the college.

In 1993 McQueen launched his own label with a small collection in the Bluebird Garage on the King’s Road, Chelsea. His subversive edge was evidenced from the get go, with the launch collection including a skirt emblazoned with images of an electric chair.

The Fall/Winter 1995/1996 Highland Rape collection, which featured torn bodices and tampon string-festooned skirts, garnered controversy. Accused of misogyny, McQueen said it was an artistic statement on the rape of the Scottish Highlands by the British.

In 1998, he was obliged to change the name of one show – The Golden Shower – after objections by sponsor American Express. Models walked through water illuminated by yellow light with horse bits in their mouths.

In 1996, after just eight collections, McQueen was appointed creative director of the French haute couture house of Givenchy, where he worked for four years producing both ready to wear and haute couture.

In December 2000 – the same year he began showing the Alexander McQueen collection in Paris - McQueen sold a 51% stake in his company to Gucci Group. This enabled him to build a global brand that now embraces boutiques, perfume and accessories. In 2008, the company finally turned a profit.

In addition to a CBE, McQueen was named British Designer of the Year four times between 1996 and 2003 and also the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year in 2003.

McQueen will be remembered as a creative genius, who pushed the concept of the fashion show to its greatest contemporary heights.

Yes his tailoring was exceptional. Beyond the razor-cut day suiting which made his name, he introduced the term “bumster” to the modern fashion lexicon: trousers cut so low they exposed bottom cleavage.

But arguably McQueen’s greatest legacy is his extraordinary showmanship which has influenced a generation of designers. After seven years of highly imaginative shows in London, his theatrical vision was finally fully realised thanks to the deep pockets of Gucci Group.

Notable productions include Spring/Summer 2004's They Shoot Horses Don’t They and the Fall/Winter 2006/2007 Widows of Culloden show, at the conclusion of which McQueen blew his audience away with what many described as a life-sized holographic image of Kate Moss (the bridesmaid at McQueen’s 2001 wedding to George Forsyth).

In fact, as McQueen’s longtime stage designer told me backstage at his Spring/Summer 2008 show, it was a Victorian era illusion called Pepper’s Ghost.

In March 2009, set against a backdrop of garbage and featuring wildly theatrical makeup and styling, the breathtaking Horn of Plenty show provided a mini retrospective of McQueen's best-known work.

McQueen's last collection, presented in October 2009 and titled Plato’s Atlantis, will be his epitaph.

The collection was inspired by his love of scuba diving (he also had a passion for ornithology from a young age, which may partially explain his love of costume feathers). The futuristic production, which was live streamed to the net, featured models wearing sculpted minidresses emblazoned with multicoloured reptilian prints - but most notably, 12-inch platform booties that McQueen called “Armadillos” which have since been widely photographed.

As revealed by this blog in December, models Abbey Lee Kershaw, Natasha Poly and Sasha Pivovarova refused to walk in them.

Frockwriter predicts McQueen's mourners will be wearing them to his funeral.

Simon Lock out at IMG

lifestyleasia.com

Fifteen years after launching Australian Fashion Week - and five years after selling it to IMG - IMG FASHION Asia Pacific managing director Simon Lock will not be renewing his contract according to a just-issued IMG release (below). This is interesting for a number of reasons, which frockwriter doesn't have the time to get into right now. But it's well worth noting that this is the third - and obviously most high profile - senior staff member to depart the event in less than a year after senior PR Cat Rodwell and international marketing manager Jodi Pritchard.

Thursday 11 February 2010, Sydney: IMG Fashion announced today that Simon Lock, Managing Director of IMG Fashion for the Asia Pacific region, will not renew his contract and will be departing the company in late 2010.

Peter Levy, IMG Fashion’s Senior Vice President and Global Managing Director, based in New York, said, “We have been grateful for Simon’s energy and enthusiasm. He has, together with our team in Australia and around the world, made an imprint on our group and on the successful events we have produced in the region over the past few years”.

This year is the milestone 15th year of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW), which was founded by Simon in 1996 and was acquired by IMG Fashion in 2005.

“We’d like to thank Simon for his contributions and his relentless passion for promoting Australian designers”, said Martin Jolly, Managing Director of IMG, Asia Pacific. “On behalf of everyone at IMG we look forward to seeing many more professional accomplishments from Simon in the future”.

Simon Lock said, “I am extremely proud of what RAFW has been able to achieve for the Australian fashion industry over the past fifteen years. It is testament to an amazing group of people who have dedicated, in some instances, much of their careers to this important endeavor. With RAFW now part of the global network of fashion weeks managed by IMG Fashion it could not be in better hands for its future growth and development. I look forward to celebrating the 15th year anniversary in May with my IMG and industry colleagues".

IMG Fashion’s team structure in the Asia Pacific region will remain the same. Simon Lock, Peter Levy and Martin Jolly will all attend RAFW this season.

A chat with Miranda Kerr at David Jones

Anyone who was following me on Twitter this morning would have seen a series of Twitpics taken backstage before the David Jones show (you can find on the Twitpic link to the right). I had just over one hour to get in and out and then head to Today Tonight to start work, so unfortunately time was extremely limited and I didn't get to see the show. Managed to squeeze in another video chat with Miranda Kerr (which was supposed to stream live, however the connection failed), in which she talks bankers, business, organic skincare, nudity - and pretty much confirms the whisper that she's about to make a sophomore appearance on Balenciaga's runway come March 3. Nice to see David Jones so graciously welcome a blogger backstage today (inviting a few more to the show itself would be a great idea). DJs will also make footage of its show available to the public from tomorrow. Just register for e news at www.davidjones.com.au. And, frockwriter hears, we may see the show streamed live next season.

Print is dead according to Oyster Magazine - which insists it is very much alive

Frockwriter recently gave you a sneak peek at a Cassi van den Dungen editorial in the new issue of Oyster Magazine, Australia's longest-surviving indie glossy, which continues to hang in there in spite of a spate of recent problems. The new issue (#85) hits today and here is the pretty awesome cover starring Annabella from Priscillas. The issue features fashion editorials from Elvis Di Fazio, Liz Ham and Bec Parsons, styling by Rinney Lennox, Jolyon Mason and Imogene Barron and the first full-length shoot from the recent SOYA award (photography) winner, Nirrimi Hakanson. Jamie Huckbody has an interview with Pierre Cardin and a tribute to Irving Penn and Indigo Clarke has penned a profile on New York DJs. The book is 210 pages (up from 156 last issue, although they did skip one issue) and the new retail price is A$9.95.

RJ Cutler is shooting Rag & Bone at Fashion Week

getty via zimbio.com

Just got off a conference call with The September Issue director RJ Cutler and 10 other bloggers. It was organised by Lionsgate, in connection with the release the DVD version on February 23. Over the course of the call - which I will add as an MP3 file once it's emailed - Cutler revealed a few interesting morsels of information. One of which was that over the next three days he will be shooting a behind-the-scenes of the New York Fashion Week preparations of Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainright and David Neville. Another documentary perhaps? Kinda. Cutler is shooting "short vignettes" which will appear, he says, on Starbucks website and Facebook page. Ah the commercial realities of indie design - and filmmaking.

Abbey Lee Kershaw talks to Today Tonight

Just before Christmas I mentioned that I bumped into Abbey Lee Kershaw on a shoot in Sydney. As I can now reveal, the job was Vogue Australia's March cover shoot and I was there to do an interview with La Kershaw for Today Tonight, the Australian nightly prime time current affairs program to which I recently returned as a producer (after a ten year hiatus). The issue is of course now out and less than an hour ago, our tv exclusive went to air. Here it is.

Did Armani crib Elton John's sunglasses from World?

terence koh/matt williams via purple diary


“The accessories - and the crystal suit - are fantastically camp. Elvis Presley might be long gone, but there's always Elton John”. So wrote frockwriter in September 2008 after visiting the Auckland HQ of NZ fashion brand World and being dazzled by the mad Swarovski crystal-embellished suits and accessories of its 'There is no depression' Autumn/Winter 2009 collection. The collection, which had just walked the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week, had been inspired by 1970s fashion icon Tina Chow. Well blow me down with a burlesque feather if Elton John didn't turn up at last week’s Grammy Awards for his duet with Lady Gaga in a pair of dead ringers for World’s fly-like crystal-studded sunglasses.

Frockwriter missed the broadcast of the Grammys and didn’t really pay much attention to the since widely distributed wider angle shots of the duo on stage.

But we did do a double take when we spotted this very clear Purple Diary shot, above, of Canadian artist Terence Koh "wearing Elton John’s Armani Privé glasses during Lady Gaga and Elton John’s Grammy rehearsals". Koh created the spectacular piano on which the duo performed their duet.

Whether or not it's due the different angles of the two photos, there does appear to be some slight discrepancy between these glasses sported by Koh and those finally worn by Elton John on stage (below). Perhaps Armani created several versions for him to choose from.

Given that World was referencing a 1970s New York fashion scene icon for its collection, perhaps the designers had an archival shot from that era on their inspiration board that season.

But then, perhaps Armani’s haute couture atelier had a shot from World’s show on its own, who's to say?

In any event, reports World, their glasses have since been purchased by the National Gallery of Victoria and are currently on display in Melbourne.


getty via daylife


world aw09/anzfw


self portrait at world