Japan accuses Russia of synchronising Miu Miu

getty via daylife

Russia's Natalia Ischenko and Svetlana Romashina are the reigning queens of synchronised swimming. Their high energy routines have earned them multiple world championships and after a mesmerising performance on Monday, they are now tipped to win the duet gold medal today. But one fashionista has given them a poor score for the originality of their costumes. 

Did Miranda Kerr neglect to stitch up a Laurent Darmon photoshoot?

laurent darmon

Rarely does a day go by, it seems, without an image of Miranda Kerr being published on an international news site, usually with Flynn, her 18 month-old son with Orlando Bloom, in tow. But a new set of far racier images of Kerr have just surfaced and are spreading across the net at record speed - the exact origins of which appear for the moment to be a mystery. NSFW

UN expert to Rodarte: Hands off Aboriginal culture

rodarte FW1213/getty via daylife

In writing about Rodarte’s Fall 2011 show in February last year and specifically, about the casting of Alice Springs-based model Melissa Johannsen, frockwriter noted, “When the Mulleavy sisters were dreaming up their Fall 2011 collection with the Great American Plains in mind, chances are there weren't any pictures of Australia’s Red Centre on their mood board”. Twelve months on, coincidentally, what inspired Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the designer siblings behind the New York-based label, for their Fall 2012 range? “Australia!” and “the rugged outback”, they told reporters backstage in New York last month, in spite of the fact that neither has ever visited Australia. The inspiration “came out of nowhere”, according to the Mulleavys. No, it did not, says Megan Davis, an indigenous Australian lawyer who is the head of the University of NSW Indigenous Law Centre and an expert member of the United Nations Permanent Forum on Indigenous Issues (UNPFII). UPDATED: The Mulleavys claim the prints were licensed, but they still won't reveal the identity of the artist/s (see below). 

Kim Kardashian wants you to buy her handbags but she'd rather carry Balenciaga

splash via the daily mail

Sydney-based entrepreneur Bruno Schiavi managed to convince Kim Kardashian to sign a global fashion and accessories deal, so you'd figure he would have taken care of a little detail like what brand handbag she was carrying when she arrived at Sydney Airport yesterday, wouldn't you? But apparently not. Kardashian and sister Khloe are in town specifically to spruik their Kardashian Kollection handbags, an exclusive capsule collection of which has just gone on sale in Australia. In the reality television star's first public appearance since her announcement on Monday that she would be filing for divorce from her husband of 72 days, NBA player Kris Humphries, she waltzed into the waiting media scrum carrying not a Kardashian Kollection, but a black Balenciaga City bag (aka Motorcycle bag). The distressed leather and hand-stitched handle are unmistakable. The bag is one of many Balenciagas from Kardashian's personal collection. 

Coles steals the show

coles 'aisle avant-garde' show via lifestyled

Back in March, in reviewing a fashion show staged by Kiwi hipster collective Stolen Girlfriends Club at the New World supermarket in Auckland's Victoria Park, Pedestrian noted "We can only hope that next time we're at Coles it's this eventful". They didn't have to wait long. Last week, Coles ripped off the idea for its 'Aisle Avant-Garde' presentation in Sydney in collaboration with Sunsilk, showcasing the work of 12 UTS students who were each asked to create a gown that incorporated Sunsilk's logo and colours. Above and below are a few shots from last week and, bottom, a video of the SGC original at New World, a New Zealand supermarket chain owned by Foodstuffs. Needless to say, Coles doesn't take quite such a laissez-faire attitude when it comes to anyone shoplifting its goods. Although given that Coles apparently rebranded its Australian supermarkets as Coles New World in 1962 - the year before New Zealand's New World chain was founded - perhaps there's 50 years of trans Tasman tit for tat at play here. 

More Boutiques.com: You can also shop their looks for less

 
Yesterday frockwriter revealed the name of Google’s new fashion e-tail venture Boutiques.com, which is launching tomorrow in New York. It was in fact a world scoop........by about 40 minutes (WWD had a page one story in yesterday’s edition). Today we can add some more info. The site, we understand, is moving very rapidly towards the unveil and its offer now embraces boutiques curated either by - or around - 76 celebrities, 27 retailers, 55 designers and 12 bloggers. But the list of designers simply reflects those names who have thus far, apparently, agreed to participate in the venture. A designer directory lists over 200 designer names (including Australians Bassike, Willow, Thurley, sass & bide, Lover and Ksubi). But even that doesn’t embrace the full scope of the Boutiques.com offer, because products from a raft other brands and outlets that are not, it seems, officially involved, are also featured. They include US-based fast fashion chain Forever 21, the bête noir of the US fashion industry, which has been the target of numerous trademark/copyright infringement lawsuits initiated by US designers - including participating Boutiques.com designers Diane von Furstenberg and Anna Sui. 

Cut copy: MJ Bale's cartoon campaign a dead ringer for P Johnson's

p johnson SS0910

So yesterday frockwriter posted an exclusive preview of a new ad campaign by new Australian luxury menswear label MJ Bale, which was launched in late 2009 by cashed-up Herringbone co-founder Matt Jensen. The idea for the campaign was a bunch of images of a model in the MJ Bale collection – with cartoon faces, hands and feet superimposed over the model. The cartoons were courtesy Sydney graffiti artist Jumbo. Fantastic idea. Only problem: Patrick Johnson says it's his. Who is Johnson? A London-trained Sydney tailor who has been in business for three years and who launched his first campaign this time last year: a series of images of a model in his collection, with cartoon faces, hands and feet superimposed over the originals. Here is a selection, above and below (which remain on Johnson's website). The creative collaborator in Johnson's case was Sydney artist Tristan Ceddia and Johnson reports it took the duo six months to nail the concept. The MJ Bale images were supplied to frockwriter in good faith and unfortunately we were not familiar with Johnson’s brand or campaign prior to a large volume of hostile comments from his supporters this morning. Others claim the real pioneer of the photo/cartoon/fashion mashup is yet another Australian artist, Ashley Wood, who created some earlier illustrations for Diesel's spinoff streetwear brand 55DSL. To be fair to Johnson here, it's not just the general photo/cartoon idea that was picked up by MJ Bale, but the exact look of Johnson's campaign.   

Did the then "almost unemployed" Lara Stone neglect to stitch up a nude Greg Lotus photoshoot in 2008?

celebrity69  via fashionising

Last week frockwriter revealed that the spectacular onyx and crystal corset and cuff worn by Lara Stone in the June edition of Playboy France were originally designed by Australian jeweller Jenny Mercian for the 2008 Victoria's Secret show. We also noted that some mystery surrounded the origin of the photos. Although some images had already been widely circulated online in late 2009, with only the website of photographer Greg Lotus cited as a source, it appeared to be the first time the shots had made it to print. Now comes news that Stone is is taking legal action against both Playboy France and Lotus, in order to "protect" her "reputation", claiming the publication of the shots was unauthorised and that she would never have posed for Playboy. Given the volume of nude work that Stone has pumped into the public domain in recent years, the claim that her reputation has been sullied by a nude Playboy spread seems a little frivolous. The far bigger issues, surely, are did Stone not have the right to consultation before the photos were sold to Playboy and is she entitled to remuneration?  

Flake's Alexander McQueen fake

Interesting new tv spot by iconic British chocolate bar maker Cadbury Flake, which airs tonight in the UK. Produced by an outfit called Fallon, according to Creative Review the clip was directed by Baillie Walsh and features Russian model Yulia Lobova, who is suspended mid-air dressed in a flowing yellow dress that was fashioned from 200 metres of fabric. The dress was designed by British couturier Antony Price, who just told vogue.co.uk that "The idea came from looking at the edges of the Flake bar and the look of a Portuguese man of war jelly fish... It took a while playing around with the frills of the dress to make it look like Flake bar edges. I do think this form of pleating is very directional - it may well creep into my next collection." Frockwriter can't help thinking that there may have been another source of inspiration for the concept - one a little closer to home for Flake and Price than Portugal.

Below is a video of the finale of the Widows of Culloden Fall/Winter 2006/2007 show of the late, great British designer Alexander McQueen, who took his own life in February.

Staged in Paris in March 2006, the show concluded with a spectacular, ghostly illusion of Kate Moss that was projected inside a giant glass pyramid in the centre of the stage. Wearing a diaphanous ballgown - that is not too dissimilar to the Price/Flake version - Moss appeared to float in the air inside the structure.

Although dubbed a life-sized "hologram" by many, McQueen's longtime show producer Simon Kenny later told me that it was in fact a Victorian era parlour trick called Pepper’s Ghost.

UPDATE 09/06/10 at 3.25pm: Creative Review updated its story overnight to point out that the Flake ad director Baillie Walsh in fact also directed the clip of Kate Moss for McQueen's show in 2006. "I'm not sure how Walsh can be 'stealing' his own work" notes CR editor Patrick Burgoyne, responding to comments that the Flake clip is a ripoff of McQueen's 2006 catwalk stunt (comments that were posted after frockwriter's post FYI). On closer inspection, however, the McQueen illusion was created with the assistance of several production houses, including not only Simon Kenny's Souvenir Scenic Studios, but also Glassworks and Gainsbury and Whiting. But who actually came up with the idea?

UPDATE 14/06: Evidently McQueen's company believes he did. The company is now considering legal action against Cadbury.

Did Armani crib Elton John's sunglasses from World?

terence koh/matt williams via purple diary


“The accessories - and the crystal suit - are fantastically camp. Elvis Presley might be long gone, but there's always Elton John”. So wrote frockwriter in September 2008 after visiting the Auckland HQ of NZ fashion brand World and being dazzled by the mad Swarovski crystal-embellished suits and accessories of its 'There is no depression' Autumn/Winter 2009 collection. The collection, which had just walked the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week, had been inspired by 1970s fashion icon Tina Chow. Well blow me down with a burlesque feather if Elton John didn't turn up at last week’s Grammy Awards for his duet with Lady Gaga in a pair of dead ringers for World’s fly-like crystal-studded sunglasses.

Frockwriter missed the broadcast of the Grammys and didn’t really pay much attention to the since widely distributed wider angle shots of the duo on stage.

But we did do a double take when we spotted this very clear Purple Diary shot, above, of Canadian artist Terence Koh "wearing Elton John’s Armani Privé glasses during Lady Gaga and Elton John’s Grammy rehearsals". Koh created the spectacular piano on which the duo performed their duet.

Whether or not it's due the different angles of the two photos, there does appear to be some slight discrepancy between these glasses sported by Koh and those finally worn by Elton John on stage (below). Perhaps Armani created several versions for him to choose from.

Given that World was referencing a 1970s New York fashion scene icon for its collection, perhaps the designers had an archival shot from that era on their inspiration board that season.

But then, perhaps Armani’s haute couture atelier had a shot from World’s show on its own, who's to say?

In any event, reports World, their glasses have since been purchased by the National Gallery of Victoria and are currently on display in Melbourne.


getty via daylife


world aw09/anzfw


self portrait at world

The counterfeiters

In November, Today Tonight looked at the spate of blatant copies in the Australian mid market footwear sector. Last month, I developed a story about actual luxury brand counterfeits. It went to air on Christmas Eve, the fruit of several weeks shooting, first at Penrith market, including hidden camera footage, and then a police raid at Allambie Heights. We tagged along as police descended on one private house that was filled with counterfeit goods, including designer handbags and, alarmingly, fake prestige brand cosmetics. The figures quoted come from the International Anti Counterfeiting Coalition and also Australian Customs. Luxury counterfeits would definitely appear to be on the rise. According to Customs, the number of seizures was down by two thirds in the 08-09 financial year, but the volume of merchandise seized had doubled on 07-08. Reporter Laura Sparkes voiced the story. Hope to follow it up.

Those who make passes at girls who wear glasses: the great Danny Roberts ripoff

danny roberts/wwd (top) dolce e gabbana/swide

Frockwriter has written about up-and-coming LA fashion illustrator Danny Roberts on several occasions. In August, I also profiled him for WWD, with the online version accompanied by a gallery of 21 images. Roberts' distinctive, expressionistic model caricatures are rapidly gaining currency across the net, via his Igor + Andre blog and his various fashion collabs. To wit, Roberts' 'Girls in Glasses' T-shirt, adapted from his mixed media painting based on Chanel's Spring 2007 collection and launched in April through London-based e-tailer Borders & Frontiers, seems to be a runaway hit. Several hundred units have been sold, with the shirt popping up in magazines, on punters on the Lookbook.nu auto street style site and on several high profile bloggers. Not counting a suite of knockoffs.

Given the song and dance that Italian luxury brand Dolce e Gabbana made about bloggers in Milan in September, seating several high-profilers front and centre at its main line show, you might assume that Dolce e Gabbana would be commissioning art directly from any bloggers whose work the company admires.

Although Roberts has yet to do any work for Dolce e Gabbana, there are nevertheless some remarkable similarities between this image, above, that was recently done by an in-house artist to illustrate sunglasses on Dolce e Gabbana's Swide website and Roberts' 'Girls in Glasses' illustration.

Meanwhile, here is the original Girls in Glasses T-shirt, below, as worn by (top to bottom) Fashion Toast's Rumi Neely, Les Mads' Jessie Weiss and Le Blog de Betty's Betty Autier.









And here are a few knockoffs:








Images:
1, 2: screen grabs yesstyle.com
3: ebay
4,5,6: screen grabs supplied by Danny Roberts

Fashion copies - back on the Australian current affairs agenda

As some may already be aware, I am currently working as a producer at a nightly Australian current affairs program called Today Tonight on the Seven Network (which explains my lack of posting of late). It’s a program on which I worked 10 years ago and it’s interesting being back, working on a mix of stories. In terms of fashion stories, it’s been a great opportunity to get some subjects to a much bigger audience than I do on this blog or indeed via the other outlets for which I normally write – try 1.7million per night (including web traffic). On my first day back I broached a couple of story ideas with executive producer Craig McPherson, top of the list being a subject that I have blogged about on several occasions: the fashion industry discriminating against plus-size consumers. Another fashion story aired this week – the rampant plagiarism across Australia's $1.8billion footwear sector.

The genesis for this story idea was a great July post from Australian shoe blogger Matt ‘Imelda’ Jordan. In his post, Jordan discussed a direct copy of a shoe design by London-based Dane Camilla Skovgaard, by Australian mid market shoe manufacturer Tony Bianco.

Most interesting of all: the subsequent tip from Jordan that Tony Bianco had dispatched a series of intimidating legal letters in the hope of obtaining a retraction of some of the claims in the post.

The audacity was breathtaking.

As revealed by Jordan, not only had Tony Bianco done a faithful reproduction of Skovgaard’s signature S8001 sandal – the style which originally made her name – but had even attempted to engineer a fake celebrity endorsement to promote the company's copy.

When launching its “Sexy Roberto” shoe to the Australian fashion press, Tony Bianco sent out US red carpet shots of celebrities Cindy Crawford and Halle Berry in Skovgaard’s originals. There was no mention of Camilla Skovgaard’s name on the mailout.

Tony Bianco’s lawyers seized on several points in Jordan’s post: notably his accusations that Camilla Skovgaard had “unleashed her lawyers” on the company and that Tony Bianco was guilty of “copyright infringement”.

Both were factually incorrect. But the David and Goliath factor made for a great story.

Although Skovgaard did consult lawyers at the time, the only representatives to contact Tony Bianco were from her US PR team.

Having failed to register the design in Australia, moreover, a straight copyright infringement case would have been indefensible.

Due to changes, in 2003, to Australia’s IP legislation, unless a designer has registered each and every design they hope to protect in this market, they are unable to in fact enforce copyright. This is unlike numerous other jurisdictions, for example the EU, where designers have an unregistered design right.

That’s not to say that Skovgaard doesn't have any legal rights here. Sources say that she would probably have little trouble proving “reputation” for the design (make that designs - it later emerged that TB has copied two Camilla Skovgaard shoes this season). The fake celebrity endorsement is a separate matter.

Only problem – she has been told that she's looking at a minumum $50,000 investment to get a case up, with of course no guarantee of success. That's a big ask of a young, independent designer.

All the companies mentioned in the story were of course offered right of reply. Noone took up the offer.

Their respective responses when I called requesting interviews were fascinating. One company even claimed that it had come up with the design in question five years ago.

It is entirely possible that Sportsgirl's Camilla Skovgaard knockoff was even supplied by a manufacturer that was already knocking off her shoe under its own brand, thereby vastly increasing its market. A big return for zero design investment in other words. Sportsgirl declined to identify the supplier of the shoe.

It’s interesting how companies that copy, often seem quite indignant when they're called out on it.

Some $400,000 in court ordered damages has been awarded for design/copyright infringement cases over the past 12 months in cases mounted by Australian companies that have taken advantage of the new Designs Registration Regime and opted to register designs.

The first fashion victory under the new system was Review versus The Discovery Group in March 2008.

Although not working for TT at the time, I was interviewed that month as talent for the program’s story about the Review case. I had the temerity to mention that it wasn’t the first time the company, which owns the Charlie Brown and lili trademarks, had copied others. I provided one example of a devoré velvet poncho with a peacock motif, first shown by New Zealand label Sabatini at New Zealand Fashion Week in September 2004 – and copied six months later by Charlie Brown.

On three previous occasions, I had written about Charlie Brown’s cheaper version of the poncho, which turned up in store the minute the Sabatini poncho appeared on the cover of the Winter 2005 catalogue of Australian department store David Jones and, notably, once word spread that the poncho was walking out the door at DJs.

But Brown had been called out for copying as far back as 1998 - by Marion Hume, then the editor of Vogue Australia.

After I mentioned the Sabatini incident on Today Tonight, Brown also threatened legal action. To date, nought's come of it.

Back in 1995, I wrote a 4,000 word expose on copying in the Australian fashion industry for the now defunct Australian current affairs magazine, The Independent Monthly. It was the year before the launch of Mercedes Australian Fashion Week and the emergence of a new generation of export-focussed designers. Australia was still locked in a culture of so-called "designers" sending international designer samples in to magazines to be photographed (still with the labels attached) while the "designers" were busy manufacturing their copies.

The story kicked off with the infamous anecdote from the Bicentennial Wool Collection at the Sydney Opera House in 1988, for which nine international designers were flown to Sydney, including Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo and the late Gianni Versace and Jean Muir. During rehearsals, Claude Montana had to be physically restrained from clocking Marilyn Said and Barry Taffs - the designers behind the Covers label. Covers had been selected to represent Australia in the show and Montana felt that their collection showed a little too much Montana influence.

Called Fashion Thieves, it was a cover story and it prompted three separate television profiles, including A Current Affair.

That story was the reason I wound up working for A Current Affair for a brief stint in early 1996 - before quickly heading to Today Tonight, where I stayed for three and a half years. I am often being reminded of this story. Several weeks ago Oyster’s Alyx Gorman drew my attention to the fact that it’s even cited in an article in the Journal of Australian Political Science.

Now I’m back in current affairs tv - still talking about copying. Because 21 years after the Bicentennial Wool Collection, many Australian companies are still shamelessly copying international designers.

For sure, copying exists everywhere. As the Tom Gunn girls pointed out in their TT interview, the London high street is notorious for quickly turning around catwalk trends. The "fast fashion" retailers Zara, Mango and H&M have revolutionised the business, turning around catwalk trends - although not necessarily one-for-one copies - at lightning speed.

But Australian copycats enjoy several other unique advantages. This was pointed out in a piece to camera in the original script for the TT story, which wound up being cut when we lost two and a half minutes.

There is also our proximity to the Chinese factories, exacerbated by the fact that we are a season behind the northern hemisphere. This means copies can be on shelves before the originals have even arrived.

Sweet clone Alabama

screengrab design professor

The term “fair use” in copyright legislation allows for the unauthorised reproduction of limited samples of copyrighted works for the purposes of news, review, comment and criticism. Fair is fair however and fair use does not license the unauthorised lifting of unlimited material, notably with zero attribution to the original. Those who partake in the unauthorised lifting of volumes of material without attribution to the original, and who attempt to pass said material off as their own work, are known as plagiarists. They walk amongst us in the media and academia and hold their heads up high - until sprung. As a blogger, moreover, I, like many others, have to contend with "content aggregators" – blogs and other websites which scrape content from around the blogosphere and repost entire blog posts under their own banners, with no permission and usually, with no attribution. When you spend a lot of time researching original material and others simply sit on their asses and rip it off – worse still, even receiving remuneration in the process – it’s enough to put anyone off blogging. But I really did have to giggle at the net’s latest content aggregator: Alabama-based academic Dr Marcy L Koontz.

Dr Marcy Koontz claims to be an assistant professor in the Department of Clothing, Textiles & Interior Design of the University of Alabama College of Human Environmental Sciences.

Koontz appears to operate a blog called Design Professor - which links through to her website and business email address.

On her blog, Koontz goes to some trouble to promote the importance of original content.

Indeed, the blog’s headline logo, writ large in bold type across the top of the blog is:

ORIGINAL – THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE ME

Also at the top of the blog, in plain view, Koontz notes:

“I am an educator who tries to constantly inspire, encourage and motivate my students to be original and cutting edge.

To be successful, you have to think outside the box, and continually challenge the mainstream.

In a world full of imitators & second-handers, being original is unique.

BE ORIGINAL - do not copy the looks & trends you see in mainstream papers & magazines if you want to be taken seriously as a designer. Industry experts will not be impressed - neither will 12 year old Tavi !”

That’s all well and good and this journalist wholeheartedly supports original thinking.

Like many other fashion blogs, Design Professor includes a blogroll of well-known fashion blogs and websites. Koontz calls those listed on her blogroll, “Inspiring People”.

The problem arises when you start scrolling through the actual content of Koontz’s blog, only to discover just how much inspiration has been taken from material published elsewhere.

Now frockwriter would like to give Koontz the benefit of the doubt in assuming that this whole thing may be some kind of misunderstanding. Lazy assistant perhaps who forgot to include links? Still wouldn’t give Koontz the right to aggregate the content without permission. Or is it not Koontz at all, but some kind of joke?

Frockwriter is seeking comment from Koontz and will let you know her response. But do check the blog as it stands – and prior to the removal of any incriminating material. (UPDATE 19/04: the blog has now been deleted, see Koontz's response below).

The only reason Design Professor popped up on frockwriter’s radar is because of a news alert on the term “Australian Fashion Week”. One recent such alert drew our attention to Design Professor’s cut-and-paste job of our own recent RAFW and Diet Coke story. It’s the entire first half of the post, complete with images (which were linked to sources in the original post). No permission was sought for this and there is no attribution whatsoever.

Curiously, Design Professor also picked up this journalist's recent social media story from WISH magazine – but on this occasion, chose to merely highlight the opening par and link through to The Australian’s website. Which suggests that Design Prof’s plagiarism may be selective.

But the Diet Coke story is just one example of a litany of Design Prof’s ripoffs, which include a cut-and-paste job of a feature from Fairfax’s The Vine website on RAFW’s Fashion Design Studio designers and another wholesale ripoff, complete with original layout, of Forbes’ Most Powerful Fashion Magazine Editors story from September 4.

One of the more alarming examples is a reproduction of The Business of Fashion’s “Valentino: Still In The Spotlight” post from April 2nd. It’s another cut-and-paste job, with a few subtle differences.

Carefully edited out of the original - conveniently drawing attention away from the fact that Design Professor did not actually sight the Valentino documentary at a special screening, or talk directly to people in the industry – are the following phrases. The original words that have been edited out are highlighted in bold type:

“I enjoyed the film at press screening in New York in October and have been waiting to see what the broader reaction would be after its wider release”.

“I think what I took away most from The film shows just how much fashion has changed. Fashion has become a world where companies focus on image creation and the marketing of dreams and cultivation of aspiration to drive sales. And, the film frames Valentino as the last of the great couturiers which, in and of itself, is a depressing thought”.

“But, I hope this is not the case. The more I speak to people in the industry, the more I think we are returning to a time of great craftsmanship, design and timelessness in fashion. The hope this that this is not the case. The more you hear from people in the industry, the more you understand that they are returning to a time of great craftsmanship, design and timelessness in fashion".

All links to earlier BOF stories have been removed from Design Professor's version, with the exception of one retained outward link: the story’s reference to the French Légion d'honneur.

You couldn’t make this stuff up.




UPDATE 19/04 @ 10.16AM: Well if you did not get to check Design Professor after this post went up late yesterday, it's too late now because the entire blog has been deleted.

Overnight Koontz sent me the following, cryptic, email:

"This is | was an unfortunate and disappointing situation that is being corrected on many fronts."

Yes, extremely disappointing - and primarily because Koontz fails to provide any explanation whatsoever.

Koontz may have deleted the blog, however evidence remains via screen grabs taken by frockwriter - and of course all the material that remains cached on the web.

UPDATE 22/04 @ 8.15AM: Twenty-four hours after sending that initial, cryptic, email which offered no explanation, Koontz sent another, much longer, email, using what is known in cyber security circles as the "unknown hacker defence". Koontz now claims that her computer was hacked. In the interim I have been attempting to procure more detailed information from her - and other independent parties. Pending some other work commitments, will update as soon as possible.

Are you being Serged? Patrizio di Renzo's hands-down Lutens homage

patrizio di renzo via fashion copious

Interesting to see all the blog gushing over a new set of heavily-styled images authored by Italian photographer Patrizio di Renzo for Swiss jeweller Majo Fruithof and starring Dutch supermod Iekeliene Stange, herself a photographer as it happens. Frockwriter was up until this point unfamiliar with di Renzo's work. We are however extremely well acquainted with the oeuvre of the award-winning French photographer Serge Lutens, the erstwhile creative director of Christian Dior Beauté and latterly, Shiseido, who created some of the most memorable beauty images of the late 20th century. And to whose work the Majo Fruithof images bear an alarming resemblance. But please, don't take frockwriter's word for it.

Compare and contrast for yourself the above Majo Fruithof image with this Serge Lutens image, created some time during the 1980s for Shiseido:


serge lutens via lumière



Here is yet another Majo Fruithof image:


patrizio di renzo via fashion copious

And voilà a Serge Lutens original, also for Shiseido:


serge lutens via lumière



Yet more Majo Fruithof:


patrizio di renzo via fashion copious

And more Lutens:


serge lutens via typogabor.com



Frockwriter is not sure what possible explanation there could be for the striking similarities between the model poses, black clown leotards and heavily stylised makeup that feature in both Lutens' work and that of di Renzo for Maja Fruithof. It's uncanny, really it is.

Much of Lutens' work is easily sourced online and via the 1998 Editions Assouline monograph Serge Lutens. Here is the cover:


serge lutens via biblioparfum.net

And here is a little more Patrizio di Renzo/Majo Fruithof for the road:



patrizio di renzo via fashion copious