Saturday, February 28, 2009
burberry FW0910/sonny vandevelde
While (some of) you were sleeping, the Milan shows rolled on. This just in: an exclusive preview of Sonny Vandevelde's backstage photo portfolio from Burberry. As runway shots are still loading elsewhere, these images give you a closer look at creative director Christopher Bailey's wistful British FW0910 collection. Entitled 'Modern nostalgia - Great British icons', the collection was inspired, says Bailey, by the historical British figures Vanessa Bell, Virginia Woolf and Elizabeth, Countess of Devon - and played to a soundtrack which included Peter Gabriel's British classic, Solsbury Hill.
The collection did not move forward but rather, looked back: on a score of British sartorial icons that included the Burberry trench, natch, double-breasted Chesterfields, mannish tweed suits and oversized boyfriend jackets, while sinuous longline Aran and also Fair Isle knit sweaters were teamed with tiered wool boucle skirts and knife-pleat kilts.
Luxurious fur capes and shearling jackets were layered over a score of richly-textured dresses in silk tulle, double satin and silk chiffon creponne, many of them high-waisted.
The brooding colour palette was shot with bursts of autumn florals and a Grand Master-look portrait print in silk creponne - a twist on the historic photoprint trend seen at Miu Miu SS09 (and popping up again last night at D&G).
The collection also featured an oversized version of Burberry's trademark tartan (not, as it turns out, the vintage Nova tartan, as previously reported), notably in the accessories, which included some spectacular super-sized totes, also in alligator and tapestry, as well as rubber-soled platform hiking boots, desert boots and lace-up sandals, cozy tartan-lined fur snoods, felted wool trilbies and "barbed wire" chain bracelets - the latter detail also seen as trims on bags. When the cold winds of Recession bite, apparently you need all the protection you can muster.
All photos © Sonny Vandevelde 2009.
Jacobean corsets, brocade capelets, heavily frogged military jackets, poet shirts and micro puffball skirts... D&G's FW0910 collection was inspired by all things Italian opera, with a heavy emphasis on La Traviata. As the D&G website told us before the show streamed live to the net, the latter was the original 'Pretty Woman' - hence, frockwriter assumes, the collection's dizzying, bejewelled streetwalker platforms and the chastity belt motif on the bags and belts. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana continue to pioneer the social media frontier of fashion marketing by streaming their shows live to the net. The nanosecond the show wrapped, moreover, they swiftly uploaded some backstage looks to their Facebook page to give their fans a closer look. Here is a selection of images.
all images: dolce e gabbana
Friday, February 27, 2009
dolce e gabbana FW0809 via hautfashion.com
OK so Gisele Bündchen and Tom Brady have tied the knot, with not only Bündchen wearing Dolce e Gabbana but apparently also her three dogs. Now it's time for the main event - or at least its diffusion version. Yep, as with September's SS09 show, those social media gurus Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are about to broadcast once again live to the net, this time with their D&G line. Watch it here at 2.00pm Milan time today (midnight AEST). This time, we're going to add on a little extra something. Instead of furiously texting and emailing throughout with mates such as Matt 'Imelda' Jordan - the "despotic queen of shoes" - we're going to try to blog the show live. We'll try to post via Twitter feeds so as to keep the one Milan Fashion Week (#MFW) convo in the one place for those who are following it. And we'll add in the Twitter feeds of some fashion peeps who are on the spot, for some on-the-ground perspective. So feel free to dive in and join the conversation. On with the show!
A Bonds charity singlet emblazoned with “The Power of Humanity” Red Cross slogan and launched a week ago in collaboration with ACP's Grazia to raise $50,000 towards the Victorian Bushfires Appeal, may come back to haunt the intimate apparel giant in the wake of this week’s news that Bonds’ Pacific Brands parent plans to axe 1850 jobs. And notably of course, following today’s revelations that PacBrands executives gave themselves 170percent pay hikes in 2008, with remuneration for the company’s 13 directors more than doubling from $7million to $15.5 million – a move that has been branded "obscene" and a "corporate crime".
The $25 singlet was apparently initiated by Grazia, with product and services donated by Bonds and Wazzup Screenprinting.
Two thousand singlets were made, with half distributed through General Pants.
In its February 16 edition, Grazia encouraged readers to buy the “exclusive and strictly limited edition” feelgood merchandise, devoting a corner of its front cover to a shot of Bonds ambassador Sarah Murdoch in the garment:
grazia via GWAS
On February 18, Australian fashion media-specialist blogger Erica Bartle criticised the initiative on her Girl With a Satchel blog.
“Grazia is well-meaning, no doubt, but I can't help but feel its fashionification of this unfortunate event borders on being tacky… I can't help but feel I'm being served a tabloid Big Mac with a charitable, calorie-free side salad”.
On Wednesday this week – prior to the retrenchments announcement by Pacific Brands – Bartle (an ACP contributor) posted an apology to Grazia, saying that she had had a change of heart.
The post prompted a barrage of commentary from readers (including this journalist), many of whom thought that Bartle had gotten it right the first time.
In the comments on Bartle's latest post, one anonymous poster claims that the photograph of Murdoch in the slogan-emblazoned singlet was a retouched version of an earlier image from the January 2008 edition of ACP stablemate, Harpers Bazaar.
While this remains to be seen, the singlet and image appear to have been organised with the blessing of Murdoch, who released the following statement to Grazia for the February 16 edition:
“The Power of Humanity has been well and truly witnessed with so many Australians banding together to support those devastated by the fires. Every dollar raised from the sale of these Chesty singlets will go to Australian Red Cross to continue that support. Thank you.”
You have to wonder just how Murdoch is feeling about her ongoing Bonds ambassadorial role today.
- ► 2013 (66)
- ► 2012 (115)
- ► 2011 (153)
- ► 2010 (330)
- Sonny Vandevelde backstage at Burberry
- Mesdames Butterfly
- D&G live
- The power of hubris: Should Bonds' charity have be...
- Blue crush
- Swim Fashion Week: Zimmermann
- AWOL from the runways, Alice Burdeu to resurface o...
- Swim Fashion Week: Seventh Wonderland
- Josh Goot's space cadets
- Oscars 2009 - Best In Show
- Oscars 2009 - Best Meringues
- Oscars 2009 - Best Bonbonniere
- Oscars 2009 - live (kinda) from the red carpet
- Grand central: Zac Posen's 50-finger discount
- The Personal Urban Transporter: Chanel's new mobil...
- At 14 this Polish teenager was banned from RAFW. T...
- Sonny Vandevelde backstage at Toni Maticevski
- Prêt-à-Twitter: Barefoot finale @ Brian Reyes
- Prêt-à-Twitter: First look @ Calvin Klein
- Legs 7-Eleven
- All you need is glove
- From the Cobrasnake to Narciso Rodriguez
- The trompe l'oeil necklace trend - it never ends!
- Gagging for it: GQ's "hottest Australian supermode...
- Let them eat Rodarte
- Punk'd: Marc Jacobs Blitzes NYFW with a neon-brigh...
- Prêt-à-Twitter: Backstage @ Marc Jacobs
- It's funny how NYFW is starting to resemble RAFW
- Make me a Victoria's Secret model
- Jessica Gomes turns up the Swim Fashion Week heat
- Banned in Sydney, breakthrough in New York
- Karen Walker's pearl protocol
- A new media day dawns @ NYFW
- The Exit strategy of Jason Wu
- New York Fashion Week - the 97% fat free version
- Black Saturday - the retail response
- Grazia stops the press
- Blue jean babies
- Swim Fashion Week: First look at the schedule
- The Sunday Telegraph checks up on "this frockwrite...
- London Fashion Week turns 25, goes to ELLE
- Serpentine gallery
- Rod Blagojevich, fashion icon?
- Yes we can do without: Top Fashion Buzzwords of 20...
- Gutter photojournalism: Zippora Seven hops on the ...
- Coco Fan Tutte
- ▼ February 2009 (50)
- ► 2008 (229)