Saturday, February 28, 2009
burberry FW0910/sonny vandevelde
While (some of) you were sleeping, the Milan shows rolled on. This just in: an exclusive preview of Sonny Vandevelde's backstage photo portfolio from Burberry. As runway shots are still loading elsewhere, these images give you a closer look at creative director Christopher Bailey's wistful British FW0910 collection. Entitled 'Modern nostalgia - Great British icons', the collection was inspired, says Bailey, by the historical British figures Vanessa Bell, Virginia Woolf and Elizabeth, Countess of Devon - and played to a soundtrack which included Peter Gabriel's British classic, Solsbury Hill.
The collection did not move forward but rather, looked back: on a score of British sartorial icons that included the Burberry trench, natch, double-breasted Chesterfields, mannish tweed suits and oversized boyfriend jackets, while sinuous longline Aran and also Fair Isle knit sweaters were teamed with tiered wool boucle skirts and knife-pleat kilts.
Luxurious fur capes and shearling jackets were layered over a score of richly-textured dresses in silk tulle, double satin and silk chiffon creponne, many of them high-waisted.
The brooding colour palette was shot with bursts of autumn florals and a Grand Master-look portrait print in silk creponne - a twist on the historic photoprint trend seen at Miu Miu SS09 (and popping up again last night at D&G).
The collection also featured an oversized version of Burberry's trademark tartan (not, as it turns out, the vintage Nova tartan, as previously reported), notably in the accessories, which included some spectacular super-sized totes, also in alligator and tapestry, as well as rubber-soled platform hiking boots, desert boots and lace-up sandals, cozy tartan-lined fur snoods, felted wool trilbies and "barbed wire" chain bracelets - the latter detail also seen as trims on bags. When the cold winds of Recession bite, apparently you need all the protection you can muster.
All photos © Sonny Vandevelde 2009.
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