Toni Maticevski enjoyed a little international PR pick-me-up earlier this year when Gemma Ward chose his distressed silk goddess gown to wear to the Australian premier of The Black Balloon. Overnight he made his fourth New York Fashion Week foray: on-schedule, but off-site, in the lobby of the chic new Rafael Viñoly-designed Hotel Roger Williams.
The collection was inspired by the 1977 book, Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939. A photo essay by Irving Penn, the book documents the Diana Vreeland-curated 1973 Metropolitian Museum of Art exhibition Inventive Clothes 1909-1939, which featured garments from Paris couture masters including Paul Poiret, Madeliene Vionnet, Alix Grès, Molyneux, Chanel, Paquin, Schiaparelli and Callot Soeurs.
There were nods to Vionnet in the draped silk gowns and to Poiret, in the lace sack dresses and shifts, the most striking a black and white draped cocktail dress with lace insert.
The rest seemed like trademark Maticevski: exquisitely detailed teastained and ivory cocktail dresses and ballgowns, with some occasional shots of marigold and salmon pink, one of the prettiest a panelled ivory cocktail dress with high Victorian collar, silk fringing and delicate shoulder ruffles.
Smart tailoring included an ivory lace blouse with shoulder pads tucked into a matching pencil skirt; a sheer, striped maxi-length shirtwaister; and a glossy black, wide-legged jumpsuit worn under a jet black blazer - it seems no designer wants to do a collection this spring without one.
All up, a polished, if occasionally unfocussed, collection, which might have been perfect had Maticevski edited out a handful of exits (a case in point the petrol blue silk layered dress with ringlets).
all images: getty for img
Click here to see the complete collection on wwd.com.
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